HomeClimbingPear Buttress

Pear Buttress: Classic Trad Climbing on Lumpy Ridge

Estes Park, Colorado United States
hand crack
finger crack
multi-pitch
runout
slab
Lumpy Ridge
trad rack
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Pear Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Pear Buttress blends solid 5.8 crack climbing with thoughtful gear placements on Lumpy Ridge’s iconic granite. This five-pitch route moves through clean flakes, hand and finger cracks, and ends with easy scrambling in the Cave area – an accessible adventure perfect for trad climbers seeking steady challenge and great rock quality."

Pear Buttress: Classic Trad Climbing on Lumpy Ridge

Pear Buttress stands out as a must-try 5.8 trad climb within Colorado’s Lumpy Ridge, offering a well-balanced test of skill and subtle exposure that invites climbers to engage with every move. Starting directly from where the approach trail taps out, this route guides you into a clean right-facing flake just off a broken section of rock, setting a tone of straightforward, enjoyable climbing. From the moment you step onto the slab to the right and ease into that solid hand crack, the climb demands attention with its mix of sweeping hand and finger cracks that run for long pitches, plus a few key sections where thin climbing demands composure.

The first pitch delivers a choice: start with an airy 5.9 R move up the flake itself or approach the slab and slip into the crack where protection is sparse for the opening 20 feet, but the climbing remains approachable. Skipping the tricky starts by scrambling left above the flake is an option, useful for those easing into the route or avoiding the runout initially. Once established on the flake, thin cracks lead to a sloping belay ledge, a natural resting point that gives space to think through the next phase.

Pitch two is less demanding (5.4), tracing a ledge then cutting into a crack that feels spacious and secure. Though there's a harder but more engaging variation involving finger cracks higher up, the standard line keeps the rhythm smooth and accessible. Pitch three unfolds into sustained hand and finger cracks that stretch close to 100 feet, demanding consistent technique and focus. Near the top of this pitch, you must navigate a traverse beneath a small roof to reach a comfortable belay ledge. Alternative variations here increase the difficulty to 5.9-, offering a notch of added challenge for climbers looking to push the limits but at the cost of smoothness and flow.

The final two pitches lighten the technical demand, wandering easily toward the Cave area where you can choose how to finish. Climbers typically end via the Hurley Traverse or directly through the Cave itself. This closing section lets you unwind but stays engaging enough to hold your attention until the rope is packed.

The route’s protection mostly calls for a standard rack, with an extra mid-sized Friend coming in handy on occasion but not mandatory. This flexibility makes Pear Buttress a solid choice for trad climbers who appreciate gear placements but prefer not to carry excessive hardware.

Access begins along a well-used approach trail in the J-Crack Slab area, just inside the broader Estes Park Valley. The hike in is straightforward with minimal brush and clear signs pointing toward Lumpy Ridge’s soaring rock faces. It’s best tackled in cool weather for optimal friction and fewer bugs, and early starts help beat afternoon sun on the slab. Water, sturdy shoes capable of edging on slab, and a helmet to handle occasional loose rock are prudent essentials here.

As a whole, Pear Buttress melds approachable movement with opportunities to test crack climbing finesse under the watchful eye of Colorado’s granite cliffs. It sits comfortably as both a high-value moderate climb for returning visitors and a memorable step up for those expanding their trad resume. With each pitch presenting clear objectives and belays, the climb offers an engaging, measured experience that stays rooted in straightforward, adventure-focused climbing.

Climber Safety

The initial pitch carries a bit of runout before adequate protection is placed; climbers should enter with confidence but caution. Loose rock exists near some ledges, so helmet use is advised. Spring and early summer can bring wet conditions that make slab sections slimy and treacherous.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches5
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the slab sections.

Wear sticky-soled shoes suitable for slab and crack climbing.

Hydrate well—there’s no water along the approach or climb.

Watch for loose rock on the approach and on ledges during the upper pitches.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels accurate for Pear Buttress, though certain starts—like the direct flake ascent at 5.9 R—add a bold step early on. Overall, the grade is moderate, with sustained crack climbing requiring solid technique. Variations that include the finger cracks on pitch two or the 5.9- moves on pitch three reliably push the rating upward, catering to climbers wanting a stiffer challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on mid-sized Friends; extra mid-sized pieces are helpful but not essential. Minimal fixed gear requires solid placement skills, especially on the first pitch’s opening slab and crack.

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Tags

hand crack
finger crack
multi-pitch
runout
slab
Lumpy Ridge
trad rack