HomeClimbingPeaceful Warrior

Peaceful Warrior: A Compact Trad Challenge in Squamish

Squamish, Canada
finger crack
face moves
single pitch
trad climbing
Smoke Bluffs
Squamish granite
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Peaceful Warrior
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Peaceful Warrior offers a concise trad climb combining technical finger crack moves with a thinner face crux, set on the iconic granite of Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. It’s an accessible yet engaging challenge perfect for climbers honing their trad skills in a stunning wilderness setting."

Peaceful Warrior: A Compact Trad Challenge in Squamish

Peaceful Warrior unfolds on the steep rock of The Smoke Bluffs, offering a focused yet rewarding single-pitch trad climb that balances technical finger cracks with delicate face moves. This route places you directly into the heart of Squamish’s rugged granite, where the rock’s texture invites a tactile conversation with each hold. The climb begins either side of a prominent detached block centered on the wall. Moving upward, you are drawn into a sharp finger crack that demands precise hand and finger placements, testing your technique and ability to read the subtle shifts in the rock’s form. As the crack fades, Peaceful Warrior transitions into thinner, more challenging moves on the face, culminating in a distinct crux that requires careful body positioning and composure to surmount. The route concludes as you reach the top of the wall, standing high above the surrounding forest with expansive views of the Squamish River valley below.

At 70 feet, the climb is compact but packed with variety, making it an ideal introduction to British Columbia’s famed granite or a focused project for climbers seeking to sharpen their crack skills without committing to a multi-pitch adventure. Protection placements accommodate cams up to 2.5 inches, rewarding climbers who come prepared with a rack balanced between small and medium gear. The bolted anchor at the top ensures a secure and straightforward descent, which is a brief walk-off journey back to trailhead access. Approaching Peaceful Warrior involves a short hike through the Smoke Bluffs parking area, passing through mixed forest terrain and easy scrambling on granite slabs.

This trad route has earned a steady reputation among local climbers, with an average star rating of 2.7 from a solid 15 votes that reflect a balance between fun accessibility and technical payoff. The climb’s 5.9 grade suggests a moderate challenge, but the finger crack and the punchy finish can catch you slightly off guard if you’re unprepared. Squamish’s temperate coastal climate means the wall dries quickly after rain, but early mornings or shaded afternoons are best to avoid slippery rock or intense sun exposure.

For those venturing to peace and challenge in equal measure, Peaceful Warrior provides a concise, sensory-rich climb. From the cool grip of the granite under your fingertips to the crisp mountain air framing the final moves, this line captures the essence of Smoke Bluffs Trad climbing: straightforward, engaging, and rewarding with notable beauty in both movement and setting.

Climber Safety

Stay attentive to placements on the finger crack; some sections require precise gear placement to avoid runout. The bolted anchor is secure, but rappelling requires standard rappel skills. Approach trail has some loose rock—watch your footing.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start climbing on either side of the large detached block to find your preferred line.

Protect the finger crack early with small to medium cams for safer climbing.

Avoid afternoons in summer to escape direct sun on the granite face.

Use approach shoes for the short but uneven trail through mixed forest to the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating accurately reflects the route's moderate technical difficulty, though the crux on the thin face section can feel punchier than the number suggests. Climbers with solid finger crack skills will find this route approachable but engaging. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs routes, Peaceful Warrior is a reliable 5.9 with a clean, consistent crack and a challenging finish.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack to 2.5 inches to protect the finger crack and face sections securely. The bolted anchor simplifies the top-out and descent.

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Tags

finger crack
face moves
single pitch
trad climbing
Smoke Bluffs
Squamish granite