Adventure Collective

Paydirt: A Classic Four-Pitch Trad Climb in The Three Amigos, Buena Vista

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
crack climbing
multi-pitch
alpine
trad gear
offwidth
forest approach
good for spring-fall
Length: 350 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Paydirt
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Paydirt delivers a varied four-pitch trad ascent in the heart of The Three Amigos near Buena Vista, mixing crack systems with technical moves. Perfect for trad climbers seeking a climb that balances moderate challenge with rewarding alpine views."

Paydirt: A Classic Four-Pitch Trad Climb in The Three Amigos, Buena Vista

Paydirt stands as a compelling four-pitch trad climb nestled in the rugged expanse of The Three Amigos near Buena Vista, Colorado. This route guides climbers through a variety of crack systems and technical moves, delivering a well-rounded alpine experience framed by the sharp contours of the Collegiate Peaks. Starting on a right-facing flake that shares its opening moves with the neighboring Red October, the first pitch requires a confident hand on 5.8 terrain, moving past a roof and traversing right to reach a secure belay pedestal. The air hums with the sound of the mountain wind and distant wildlife, while the sheer rock offers a tactile playground of jugs and cracks that dare you upward.

The second pitch sharpens the focus with a thin crack that serves as a satisfying crux. Climbers feel the delicate balance between precision and strength here, as the move demands careful footwork before easing into an offwidth crack. At roughly 100 feet in length, the pitch culminates on a solid belay ledge that invites a brief pause and a moment to absorb the open high-country views.

From there, pitch three takes you through less strenuous terrain rated 5.6+, weaving cracks and grooves that push toward a broad ledge for another secure station. The challenge mellowing, the climb shifts gear as you traverse a final steep crack that tests technique and patience. Power reserves, body positioning, and gear placement all combine to maintain a rhythm that both novices and seasoned climbers will appreciate.

The last pitch is a gentle step up easier 5.4 terrain to the summit block of the formation. Here the breeze speaks boldly, carrying the scent of pine and stone, while panoramic views stretch outward over Buena Vista's valleys and peaks. A straightforward walk-off descent awaits, allowing the climber to relax back into the wild landscape after the focused effort.

Equipment for Paydirt is straightforward but critical—racks ranging from 00" to 4" cams, with doubles of 0.3" to 2" offering optimal protection along the cracks. A 5" piece can be handy but isn’t essential. Protection placements feel generally secure but require discernment, especially in the key crack sections to maintain a safe upward progression.

Approaching Paydirt involves a trailhead accessible off of Buena Vista, with an approach that winds through forested patches and open ridges, taking about 20 to 30 minutes. The terrain shifts from soft soil to talus as one nears the base, setting the stage for the rock to take over.

Climbing during late spring through early fall is ideal. The wall, facing a generally favorable aspect, catches the morning sun while offering afternoon shade, making midday climbs comfortable even in warmer weather. With its moderate length and manageable exposure, Paydirt fits well for climbers looking to build trad confidence or enjoy a solid day out in the Collegiate Peaks.

This route is a balanced adventure: it gives a sense of alpine solitude without the extreme technical commitment of nearby harder climbs. For anyone chasing a classic Colorado trad line with tastefully mixed crack climbing, straightforward logistics, and a scenic setting, Paydirt is a climb that offers both challenge and reward in equal measure.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock around the ledges and roof sections, especially early in the season. Gear placements require care on the thin crack—testing cams before committing is wise. The descent walk-off can be slippery if wet; sturdy boots and caution help ensure a safe exit.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length350 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is moderately steep; sturdy hiking shoes with good traction are recommended.

Start early to catch cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon shadows on the wall.

Bring extra slings or runners for extending gear placements around roofs and traverses.

Hydrate well and pack layers as weather conditions can shift quickly in the high country.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9-
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9- rating is approachable but honest. The crux thin crack on pitch two adds a nuanced challenge without overwhelming less experienced climbers. The rating feels balanced, with pitch three and four providing easier terrain that allows recovery and rhythm building. Compared to nearby Red October, Paydirt tilts slightly easier but remains engaging throughout.

Gear Requirements

A single rack from 00" to 4" cams is essential, with doubles in the 0.3" to 2" range providing reliable protection through the crack systems. Optional 5" gear can add security on wider sections but isn't necessary.

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Tags

crack climbing
multi-pitch
alpine
trad gear
offwidth
forest approach
good for spring-fall