"Payanoia delivers a compact climbing experience blending technical crack work with dynamic bouldering moves on Squamish’s famed granite. This single pitch route challenges climbers to maneuver a host of climbing styles in under 50 feet."
Payanoia offers an intense but brief encounter with Squamish's signature granite where hand and finger jams meet the demands of precise body tension. This 50-foot climb sits in the heart of The Smoke Bluffs and kicks off with a straightforward 5.8 crack that invites your hands to find rhythm in an inviting split. The crack swallows your protection gear around the 1-inch size, setting a solid foundation for the pitch. After you mantle onto a vast ledge, the route takes on a different character — now it’s a bouldery dance around the arete that tests balance and creativity more than steady climbing. The bolt positioned to the left of the arete acts as a safety net preventing dangerous falls during these moves, but this section largely depends on your skill and a well-placed pad beneath the ledge if you’re hesitant to commit.
Above the ledge, the top portion requires careful footwork as you traverse right before swinging left to crest the arete. This means tight sequences with sensitive edging on slabby granite, demanding a refined touch after the crack climbing challenge. Anchoring from tree slings quickly tops off the climb. Even with its modest height and single pitch, Payanoia balances bold moves with sensible protection so that climbers can push their limits safely.
Accessing the route is easy from The Smoke Bluffs parking area, a quick hike puts you at the base where the crisp forest air blends with distant mountain views. The granite’s texture invites friction-focused climbing, so gripping shoes and steady feet are highly recommended. Afternoon climbs reveal how the rock changes temperature, gripping better as the day warms, while early mornings might keep the surface cooler and tackier.
Explore Payanoia for a concentrated taste of Squamish’s rich climbing ethos—the blend of crack climbing tradition and modern boulder problem style, all wrapped in a very approachable grade. It’s perfect for those wanting a brief yet multifaceted climb that challenges technique and foot placement. Whether leading or top roping, the route rewards with quiet satisfaction and a glimpse into the area’s climbing culture that values efficiency and style on granite’s varied faces.
Despite the presence of a bolt to reduce risk on the boulder problem, the large ledge midway can give a false sense of security. A well-placed pad and cautious movement during the upper sequence are essential to avoid injury from falls. Tree anchors should be inspected for stability to ensure a safe top belay.
Start early to take advantage of cooler rock temperatures for better friction.
Carry a medium-sized crash pad to place on the ledge for the bouldery top section.
Wear shoes with excellent edging ability due to slab and arete climbing.
Check and sling the anchoring trees carefully; they provide a solid top anchor.
Bring gear protecting the bottom crack optimally in sizes around one inch. Though the climb features a bolt near the arete, this is primarily to prevent ground falls from the boulder problem section. Use a pad on the ledge during the upper moves for added safety.
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