Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingParallel Passages

Parallel Passages on The Chief: A Classic Multi-Pitch Trad Challenge

Squamish, Canada
off-width
flake crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
Squamish granite
chimney
walker-off
Length: 1000 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
7
Location
Parallel Passages
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Parallel Passages offers a sustained trad climb ascending The Chief’s North Walls through a mix of off-widths, flakes, and crack systems. This seven-pitch adventure challenges climbers with technical sequences and relentless granite, topped by panoramic summit views."

Parallel Passages on The Chief: A Classic Multi-Pitch Trad Challenge

Parallel Passages stretches across The North Walls of The Chief in Squamish, offering a committed seven-pitch journey that blends technical crack climbing with solid moderate terrain. This 1000-foot trad route demands both endurance and finesse, winding through a variety of crack systems carved into iconic granite. From the moment you leave the bolt-protected belay on pitch one, the rock compels attention—whether you choose the steeper direct line climbing 5.10c or the slightly longer but steadier 5.9 variation leftward. As you climb higher, you feel the mountain’s pulse in the tight off-widths and chimney sections that require persistent hand jams and precise footwork, with protection placements that reward well-prepared rack setups.

The second pitch invites you through a 5.6 off-width, where solid gear placements provide security as you navigate the sustained movement up and right. Arriving at the base of a striking left-facing flake crack, you encounter one of the crux pitches—Pitch 3—where the flake demands confident laybacking and a strategic balance of power and technique. For those considering aid, the bolts provide reliable hooks, although free climbers face a 5.12a challenge here, reserved for seasoned crack specialists.

Continuing upward, Pitches 4 and 5 maintain the route’s rhythm with off-widths and crack systems that merge manageable but compelling climbing. The rock breathes through the well-placed bolts, and the natural features encourage extended stretches of hand jams mixed with delicate foot placements. The approach to Pitch 6 is marked by a unique cave section, where you push into a finger crack and then swing hard right past a rappel station to belay beneath a prominent off-width chimney, a highlight that tests your comfort in awkward stemming movements.

The final pitch, Pitch 7, revolves around a technical 5.10a move into a corner leading to the route’s summit, rewarding climbers with sweeping views from the top of The Chief’s third summit. This last section balances hardness and exposure, finishing the journey on a confident note. Descending is straightforward via a walk-off trail descending to the parking lot, allowing climbers to relax after their upward push.

Gear selection is critical on Parallel Passages. A full rack from small nuts and micro cams up to at least a #4 Camalot is essential. The route’s longest pitches fit well with a 60-meter rope, but two ropes are recommended if you anticipate retreating, as some rappel stations require double-rope setups. The fixed stations simplify belays, yet climbers must remain vigilant with placements in off-widths and chimneys where the rock's texture can be slick in wet conditions.

Squamish’s coastal climate means the best climbing windows are late spring through early fall, avoiding heavy rains that can dampen the granite and impact friction. Early mornings provide crisp, cool air with sun warming the stone as the day unfolds, perfect for tackling the route’s sustained demands. The North Walls sit prominently within a protected wilderness, where views of the Howe Sound fjord remind climbers why this area remains a bucket-list destination for trad enthusiasts.

Parallel Passages strikes a fine balance between adventure and accessibility. It offers enough variety to challenge even strong trad leaders while remaining approachable for climbers looking to push their limits beyond single-pitch climbs. Preparation, steady pacing, and respect for the mountain’s shifting personality make this route an unforgettable rite of passage on The Chief.

Climber Safety

The off-width and chimney sections demand strong jamming and body positioning; falls here can be serious due to limited rest points. Approach with caution in wet or damp conditions as the granite can become slick, and solid protection is crucial. The descent trail, while obvious, may be slippery and steep in places.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches7
Length1000 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon rain and enjoy cool, grippy rock.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber for delicate crack work.

Be comfortable with off-width techniques; small cams need thoughtful placement.

The descent trail can be slippery—watch your footing descending to the parking lot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10b/c, Parallel Passages feels appropriately graded with a few cruxy moves on pitches 3 and 7 that push the technical envelope. The rating is generally on point, with some climbers considering parts of pitch 3 to push into 5.10d territory free, especially if avoiding aid. The variety of crack sizes and off-widths adds layers of complexity beyond a pure 5.10 line.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack including 1x #4 Camalot, 2x .5-#3 Camalots, several nuts, and smaller cams under .3. A 60m rope is sufficient for the full climb but carry two ropes if planning for potential bail. Fixed stations simplify anchors, yet off-width sections require reliable pro placements.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Parallel Passages and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

off-width
flake crack
multi-pitch
trad gear
Squamish granite
chimney
walker-off