"Paradise Lost tackles Red Devil’s South Face with a steep, juggy sequence that captivates climbers seeking a fun, accessible 5.9-. Bathed in midday sun, this single pitch provides solid protection and panoramic views, making it an excellent choice for spring and fall ascents."
Paradise Lost offers a refreshing sprint up the striking South Face of Red Devil, a climb that rewards both beginners easing into the 5.9 range and seasoned climbers looking for a short yet engaging line. From the moment your fingers find purchase on its solid rock, the route demands attention—a sequence of steep, jug-filled moves that flow smoothly yet maintain enough challenge to keep you alert. The climb starts just below the upper switchbacks known as Hell Freezes Over, positioning you perfectly to soak up the direct midday sun warming the face. This sunlight makes spring and fall the ideal seasons to hit the route, avoiding the harsher summer heat that can turn those bomber holds slick with sweat.
Approaching Paradise Lost involves a short walk from Red Devil’s base, passing through a stretch where poison ivy quietly claims its territory. A cautious step keeps it at bay, so attention to footing and route-finding here is essential before stepping onto the rock. Once on the wall, you’ll appreciate the thoughtful bolt placements—nine bolts support the climb, spaced for smooth movement but demanding a good clip technique, particularly at the third bolt where a longer sling reduces rope drag and keeps your ascent fluid.
As the climb unfolds over its 100-foot single pitch, the rock’s texture and well-protected line offer confidence without sacrificing excitement. Expect muscle-testing lock-offs on solid, juggy holds that serve up a comfortable challenge. Climbers often note that the 5.9- rating feels approachable with ample rest spots, though the sustained steepness ensures you’ll stay engaged right until the two-bolt ring anchor greets you at the top, where a comfortable belay stance awaits.
Local climbers prize Paradise Lost for its accessibility and friendly vibe, making it a perfect afternoon outing after work or a weekend tune-up to sharpen sport climbing technique. The setting within Boulder’s South Flatirons brings panoramic views alongside the climb, with the surrounding wilderness pushing back gently, inviting a mindful pause to enjoy the fresh air and rugged landscape.
Practical advice for this route includes packing plenty of water and gearing up with sticky climbing shoes designed for grip on the polished granite. Timing your climb outside peak midday sun in summer can mean cooler, more pleasant conditions. After the send, the descent is straightforward, a short hike down the approach trail returning you quickly to your car and the comforts of Boulder’s climbing community. Paradise Lost is a concise, invigorating climb that feels like a natural progression into the Flatirons’ sport climbing offerings—steep, steady, and rewarding.
Exercise caution approaching the climb due to poison ivy growing at the base; stay on designated trails and avoid brushing against vegetation. The bolts are solid, but always double-check your clipping technique, especially the third bolt where rope drag can cause stick clips if not managed with a sling.
Watch for poison ivy at the approach base; stick to clear paths to avoid contact.
Bring a long sling for the third bolt to manage rope drag effectively.
Plan your climb for spring or fall to avoid the intense midday heat.
Use sticky shoes with good grip to handle the polished granite holds.
Nine well-spaced bolts lead to a two-bolt ring anchor. A long sling is recommended for the third bolt clip to reduce rope drag. The climb is rigged for a 60 meter rope, ensuring you have sufficient length for the full pitch.
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