"Papas Fritas is a concise sport climb on a sun-baked slab above Jilotepec. While straightforward in rating, it demands careful movement to navigate loose rock and a runout section near the top, offering an honest test of slab technique for climbers stepping into 5.9 terrain."
Papas Fritas offers a brief but intriguing climbing experience on a sunlit slab in the heart of Central Mexico's rugged terrain. Though modest in length, this 88-foot sport route demands respect for its loose rock and subtle runouts, inviting climbers to sharpen their slab skills and trust their footwork. The climb’s exposed face catches the heat of the day, reflecting the volcanic origins of the surrounding bluffs that rise steadily above the nearby village of Jilotepec. As you ascend, the rock occasionally tests your commitment—fragments shift beneath your fingers and toes, reminding you that this isn’t a route for mindless clipping. With seven bolts and a final anchor, Papas Fritas offers protection—yet the spacing, especially near the top, leaves a moment of breathing room that challenges less confident climbers to stay present and deliberate.
Approaching the climb, you follow a short trail threading through dry scrub and scattered yucca stalks, where the crisp air carries a subtle scent of earth and sun-baked stone. The clear blue sky above contrasts sharply with the pale granite, creating visual clarity that helps spot footholds and plan your next move. This isn’t a route for top roping—friction against the rope and the loose surface make it risky, especially if unprepared for a fall. Instead, lead climbing here is about measured progress and keen attention. Papas Fritas is perfect for climbers stepping into 5.9 terrain who want to test their composure on slab without overhang drama, yet still experience the thrill that comes with trusting shaky feet.
The setting itself feels honest and stripped back—no crowds, no buildup, just a straightforward slab face carved from volcanic deposits that frame distant ridges and the open sky. It’s a quick climb but one that encourages climbers to slow down and tune into the rock’s quiet voice. On sunny days, the warmth penetrates deep into the stone, making grip feel different with each move. Plan your day to start early or late afternoon to avoid the peak heat, and don’t forget to bring shoes with sticky rubber designed for delicate edges.
Pack water carefully, as the approach is short but under the relentless Mexican sun. The local wildlife is subtle—a few lizards sun themselves on neighboring rocks, and birdcalls echo faintly, adding to the straightforward but evocative ambiance.
Papas Fritas is a reminder that even on a short slab, climbing demands attention, respect, and preparation. For those willing to engage with its loose challenges, it offers a crisp connection to the skill and patience of slab climbing in Mexico’s Central highlands.
Loose rock presents a hazard, especially on the slab sections. Avoid top roping to prevent damaging the route and increasing friction. Be cautious when clipping the last bolt, as the runout extends toward the anchors. Helmets are recommended.
Avoid top roping due to rope friction on the slab.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes for better edge control.
Start early or later in the afternoon to reduce heat exposure.
Check bolt integrity before leading as the route experiences some wear.
The route is protected by seven fixed bolts and concludes on anchors. Keep in mind there is a stretch near the top where the bolts are spaced wider, requiring confident clipping and careful clipping technique to manage rope drag on the slab surface.
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