"A modest challenge on polished granite slabs in Big Thompson Canyon, Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club offers precise slab climbing with a short crux and generous bolting. This route is a neat test of balance and technique set against the quiet backdrop of Estes Park's rugged valley."
Pancho's Happy Bottom Riding Club offers a uniquely approachable slab climb set within the rugged confines of Big Thompson Canyon near Estes Park, Colorado. The route unfolds over 180 feet of solid granite, featuring two pitches that combine straightforward slab moves with a brief, more challenging section that tests your balance and precision. This climb is a quiet invitation to those who appreciate climbing that favors subtle technique over brute force, demanding attention to footwork on a surface that’s polished yet grippy.
The ascent begins with easy, well-bolted terrain, steadily guiding you up the slab. The route's crux reveals itself about 30 feet off the ground, guarded thoughtfully by the second bolt. Here, a short vertical stretch rated at 8+ beckons a moment of focus and control before easing back into a more relaxed 5.5 runout slab that continues upward. Climbers can choose to attack the crux directly or skirt up and right at the first bolt, offering some personal route-finding freedom.
As you climb, the granite’s natural texture offers reliable holds peppered across the slabs, allowing for confident placements and a rhythm that encourages flow. The sun hits these slopes in a way that warms the rock without baking it—ideal for a morning or late afternoon session. Belays are bolted securely at both 100 and 180 feet, allowing for a safe and straightforward rappel descent with a single long rope.
While the climbing is inviting and technically rewarding, it's critical to respect the landowner’s wishes: this route sits on private property, and climbing is currently not permitted. This delicate balance between opportunity and responsibility highlights the importance of stewardship in Colorado’s climbing landscape.
Gear-wise, the climb is well-protected with bolts that cover the crux and anchor points, although a few small nuts or cams might find placements in select cracks. For those seeking a break from overhung, gym-like routes, this slab offers a welcome change with its raw, natural granite and the mental challenge of trusting your feet and gear on slick terrain.
Approaching the climb requires familiarity with the Big Thompson Canyon area and awareness of local access rules. Though the trail to the slabs is short and manageable, the setting’s remote feel offers a peaceful connection to Colorado’s rugged backcountry. The sharp air, the sound of the nearby river carving through the canyon, and the unassuming yet compelling nature of this climb make it an experience to consider carefully should access become available again.
Pancho’s Happy Bottom Riding Club is for climbers who seek calm, technical slab climbing over power moves, emphasizing finesse and route reading. Its modest star rating belies the satisfaction found in each precise foot placement and the seamless dance across granite’s surface. When planning a visit, bring shoes suited for slabs, plenty of water to stay hydrated in the dry mountain air, and time your attempt to avoid the high sun and afternoon winds. Above all, respect for property and conservation is paramount—let this climb remind us all that some lines remain treasures best admired, with hope for future access forged through mutual respect.
While bolts protect key moves and belays, parts of the slab are runout and demand confident footwear and steady nerves. The rock is generally solid but watch for occasional loose flakes on the approach. Because this climb is on private property, unauthorized access risks closure or injury without rescue options nearby.
Use climbing shoes with sticky rubber for optimal slab friction.
Bring a single 70-meter rope for one-rope rappels.
Start early to avoid overheating on sunlit granite surfaces.
Respect the landowner’s closure—climbing is currently prohibited here.
Pitch one requires clipping four bolts that form a secure ladder through the initial slab. The crux at 30 feet is protected by the second bolt, ensuring confidence during the more demanding moves. Pitch two has two bolts and bolted belays anchored at 100 and 180 feet respectively. While the route primarily depends on bolts, some small nuts or cams may be placed in limited cracks for added peace of mind. A single rope long enough for a 180-foot rappel suffices for descent.
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