"Pancho Villa Rides Again offers five challenging pitches of dynamic crack climbing on El Potrero Chico's renowned limestone walls. This sport route blends powerful bulges and technical cracks, rewarding focused climbers with a bold adventure under the Mexican sun."
Pancho Villa Rides Again stands as one of El Potrero Chico's most compelling sport routes, carving through sheer limestone with a sequence of bold moves and technical crack climbing that demands focus and finesse. The climb stretches roughly 500 feet over five pitches, offering a measured progression from powerful boulder-style bulges into sustained finger and hand crack sequences that challenge even seasoned climbers. As you step onto the first pitch, the rock feels alive beneath your fingers—granular and textured, daring you to commit to that initial pull over a small bulge and slip into the finger crack where holds narrow and control is everything.
Moving higher, the second pitch unfolds with a mix of hand-sized crags and a prominent flake that invites a careful step left into a secure hand crack. Each movement is deliberate, testing your balance and body positioning along the way. The third pitch injects dynamic adventure—a traverse to the right followed by an exciting bulge that requires power and precise footwork to overcome. The limestone here has a confident grit, demanding clean feet and steady breathing.
The fourth pitch offers a welcome breather with a 5.9 chimney pitch that feels like escaping into a natural corridor. This section gains cracks leading up and right, inviting relief or a moment to reset before the final push. Pitch five brings you through broken terrain and a final 10a grade that teases with varied rock features, demanding sustained focus to link the final moves and reach the summit.
El Potrero Chico’s walls catch the sunlight beautifully in the late morning, lending warmth to the otherwise exposed rock. Climbers should prepare for the dry air and bring plenty of water, especially as shade is limited. The approach to the base is straightforward but requires good shoes for navigating rocky terrain before the climb. After topping out, rappelling is the recommended descent, with anchors located at the top and on neighboring routes, so pack accordingly. Remember, gear left at belays can be a challenge to retrieve due to the rappel setup, so plan your packing with care.
Overall, Pancho Villa Rides Again is an engaging test of crack technique, endurance, and route-finding, set against the dramatic backdrop of El Potrero Chico’s towering limestone cliffs. It’s a route that rewards precision and commitment, perfect for climbers ready to push their limits in one of Mexico’s premier climbing destinations.
Rappel anchors are located on a neighboring route, which means descending requires careful planning to avoid leaving gear behind. The approach and belay ledges are exposed and can get hot; bring sun protection and stay vigilant with hydration.
Bring plenty of water; the wall is exposed to sun through late morning.
Wear sticky shoes suitable for both crack and slab movement.
Do not leave gear or packs at the first belay; rappel anchors are uphill making retrieval difficult.
Start early to avoid climbing in the peak afternoon heat.
This route requires a standard El Potrero Chico rack with 14 quickdraws recommended for the bolts along the pitches. Protection is bolted but be prepared for technical crack sequences requiring precise footwork and body tension.
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