"Located on Mount Thorodin in Golden Gate Canyon State Park, the Paddling About Variant offers a two-pitch trad climb that combines straightforward scrambling with technical finger crack climbing. With solid gear placements and a crux that challenges, it’s a satisfying option for climbers seeking a fresh take on a classic route."
The Paddling About Variant unfurls as a compelling alternative route on Mount Thorodin, located within the rugged confines of Golden Gate Canyon State Park near Golden, Colorado. At roughly 300 feet, split into two pitches, this climb invites adventurers to step beyond the well-trodden path of the original Paddling About and engage with a finger crack that tests both finesse and resolve. The first pitch begins with a scramble over class 3 and 4 terrain, encouraging you to move swiftly and deliberately through vegetated sections that act almost like guardians before the real climbing begins.
Once past this initial approach, the core of the climb reveals itself: a narrow finger crack that rises beneath a low-angled diagonal roof. Here, the rock challenges your balance and finger strength with moves that range from 5.7+ to a demanding crux of 5.8 at a short dihedral capped by that small roof. The crack runs true, rewarding steady technique with secure placements mostly requiring smaller cams and nuts—nothing larger than a 0.75-inch Camalot is needed. This gear range keeps the climb accessible while maintaining a sense of technical engagement, especially for those comfortable with traditional protection.
Above the crux, the crack opens to easier terrain before reaching the sprawling P1-P2 belay ledge shared with the original Paddling About route. From this vantage, the second pitch is identical to the classic route, offering a straightforward finish. The position is superb: exposed enough to grant sweeping views of the surrounding canyon walls and the tree-lined slopes below, yet controlled enough that the exposure enhances rather than overwhelms the experience.
This variant carries a modest star rating of two, justified by the interplay of crack climbing and terrain navigation. The climb is approachable for intermediate climbers but packs a punch with its sharper crux moves and finger-lock sequences. Golden Gate Canyon State Park, known for its accessible wilderness minutes from the Denver metro area, offers a climbing setting that balances remote natural beauty with the convenience of well-maintained trailheads and clear route markings.
Planning your ascent, prepare for a short but varied approach that includes some light brush and rocky scrambling. Durable footwear with sturdy soles will serve well here, and quick-draws complimented by a set of smaller cams and a few nuts will fit the protection needs perfectly. Timing your climb for morning to avoid the harsher sun exposure on the wall is advisable, especially in summer months when afternoon storms can develop rapidly. Water and hydration systems are essential, as is attentive weather monitoring given the canyon's quick shifts.
Descending is straightforward with established rappel points or a cautious walk-off down the approach slope, both options requiring clear route knowledge to avoid loose rock. This climb invites you not only to test your crack-climbing ability but to savor the textured, variable terrain of Colorado’s Front Range – a valuable addition to any trad climber’s logbook.
Embrace the challenge of hands gripping the cold, rough rock, feet seeking the thinnest shoulders, and the faint sounds of wind threading through the pines as you ascend. The Paddling About Variant rewards focus and technical skill with position, protection, and a true taste of local flavor—perfect for anyone looking to spice up a familiar route with a touch of finger crack finesse.
Watch for loose rock on the approach scramble and remain cautious when negotiating the vegetated sections. The diagonal roof crux demands clean footwork to avoid slips; also, be prepared for sudden weather changes typical of the Front Range during summer afternoons.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer.
Wear sturdy, grippy shoes suitable for scrambling and crack climbing.
Bring a small rack of nuts and cams focusing on sizes 0.2 to 0.75 inch.
Scout the approach carefully; initial scramble includes loose and vegetated terrain.
Good gear opportunities primarily in the finger crack section, focusing on smaller cams and nuts; cam sizes up to 0.75 inch Camalot are sufficient.
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