"P38 invites climbers into a focused, technical 50-foot traverse on the granite cliffs above Chibougamau. Its 5.12a rating demands precision, power, and solid rope management in a wild northern Quebec setting."
Set against the striking granite cliffs of northern Quebec, P38 challenges climbers to harness technical skill and raw strength over a compact 50-foot sport route that demands respect. This single-pitch test piece sits just above the second plateau, marked by two small trees to the right of Tipus, inviting climbers into a focused traverse that scrapes the wall’s face with deliberate intent. From the first clipped bolt, the route leads you sideways, following a clean, sharply etched crack that slices across the rock, compelling a careful balance of body tension and fingertip precision.
P38 is not for the faint-hearted or the unprepared. Rated 5.12a, the route’s difficulty lies in sustained moves that require smooth technique and mental control. The rock’s solid texture offers reliable friction, yet the continuous lateral nature of the climb keeps arms burning. The traverse culminates in an exit onto "Mieux vaut tard que Chapais," offering satisfying relief and a perfect vantage point to absorb the rugged landscape sprawling below.
The approach in this remote wilderness sector of Chibougamau is straightforward yet deliberate. Access the climb by ascending to the upper bench, a short hike steeped in boreal forest scents and the occasional call of distant wildlife. The granite here is crisp underfoot and finger, with the bolted protection providing confidence but demanding attentive clipping and rope management on the sidepull traverse. Although the route's length is modest, the intensity scales rapidly, rewarding preparation, steady pacing, and a solid warm-up.
Gear-wise, climbers benefit from a light rack focused on quickdraws, as the fixed bolts offer secure yet spaced protection across the traverse. Footwear with sticky rubber and a precise fit will help negotiate subtle foot edges along the route's diagonal claw. Since the wall faces northward, early mornings or late afternoons in warmer months provide the best comfort, avoiding the chill and dampness that shadows can hold. In winter, this face is sealed by snow and ice, so summer through early fall is the optimal window.
Safety calls for vigilance in rope handling during the traverse, where falls might swing into the wall. The approach trail is clear but uneven, so sturdy boots and layered clothing are advisable to adapt to rapidly changing weather. With fewer ascents recorded, P38 is a hidden gem for climbers eager to test their mettle on demanding technical moves amidst stark Canadian wilderness.
Whether you arrive seeking a precise line to sharpen your sport climbing skills or hunger for a solid challenge away from crowds, P38 stands ready. It’s a route that balances a rugged edge with a clean, engineered safety net, offering a true climb where every hold counts and the landscape demands your full attention.
Be cautious of rope drag and potential pendulum swings during the traverse. Although protection is solid, a fall on a sidepull traverse can increase fall distance and impact angle.
Start early or late in the day to avoid the cold northern shade lingering on the face.
Wear sticky climbing shoes to maximize foothold on subtle edges throughout the traverse.
Prepare for powerful sidepull moves requiring core tension and steady clipping.
Secure rope management is crucial to avoid pendulum falls on the continuous traverse.
This bolted sport route requires a light rack focused on quickdraws for safe, spaced clips. The fixed protection helps maintain confidence during the demanding traverse.
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