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Ozark Prom Queen: A Classic Alpine Trad Climb on Mt. Evans

Idaho Springs, Colorado United States
trad crack
alpine
roof crux
runout
summit ridge
snowfield approach
5.9 crux
exposed finish
Length: 540 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
Ozark Prom Queen
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ozark Prom Queen offers a clean, five-pitch alpine trad climb on Mt. Evans’ West Buttress. Featuring a compelling roof crux and exposed runout slabs, this route delivers practical alpine adventure for climbers ready to engage sharp rock and changing weather high above the tree line."

Ozark Prom Queen: A Classic Alpine Trad Climb on Mt. Evans

Ozark Prom Queen slices a direct, low-angle line up the West Buttress of Mt. Evans, offering a straightforward yet engaging alpine trad experience that balances climbing challenge with sweeping summit views. Approaching through talus, the buttress stands apart from the main ridge with a clean line that attracts climbers seeking exposure without extreme difficulty. The climb spreads across five pitches, each delivering distinct terrain—from slabby hand cracks and juggy corners to a roof crux guarded by a fixed pin, pushing the route into 5.9 territory.

Begin behind a triangular block, unlocking the easiest passage through broken faces and corners to reach a broad ledge. The second pitch moves through low-angle ground with manageable scramble sections and prepares you for the crux pitch above. The third pitch stands out: here, a roof demands powerful moves, and the presence of an old ring angle hints at the route’s uncertain first ascent history. Whether you’re stepping left to bail or pushing through the crux, this pitch sets the tone for a climb that invites both cautious route-finding and adventurous climbing.

Beyond the crux, pitches four and five feature thin cracks, bulges, and dihedrals on solid alpine rock. A mix of runout sections (5.7 R and 5.4 R) encourages bold movement, rewarding confident footwork and smart gear placements. The final 60-foot pitch climbs a narrow fin leading sharply to the summit ridge, offering an exposed finish with great views back towards Evans’ main summit.

Once atop, the expansive panorama stretches across alpine ridges and valleys, a serene reward after the exposed climb. The descent requires care: drop down the ridge via moderate terrain, crossing a notorious couloir that demands precise footwork or a well-placed rappel. Weather can shift suddenly here, so moving decisively is key. Gear up with standard alpine protection up to 3 inches, including small nuts and TCUs for tricky placements. Early season climbers should expect lingering snowfields and consider an ice axe for stability.

This climb combines approachable alpine adventure with enough technical moves to satisfy climbers ready to test their trad skills in a remote setting. It's a compelling choice for those who want to experience Mt. Evans’ alpine character beyond the usual hiking routes, with an emphasis on balance—exhilaration grounded in sensible preparation. Keep your eyes alert for loose rock on the talus and be prepared for a short scramble at the start. With six votes averaging 2.5 stars, it’s a solid, lesser-traveled climb that rewards climbers who seek solitude paired with solid alpine rock.

Whether you’re aiming for a fast ascent or a relaxed exploration, Ozark Prom Queen invites you to read the rock, respect the alpine environment, and savor the growing silence that high alpine routes demand. The route’s line is clear, the protection straightforward, but subtle complexities arise in its runouts and weather exposure. Expect to meet the mountain on its own terms, with steady focus and appreciation for the quiet grandeur of Colorado’s high country.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is common near the approach and lower pitches; climbers should remain vigilant. Early season snowfields can introduce slipping risks, and the final descent couloir poses dangers from falling rocks and requires careful negotiation or rappel gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches5
Length540 feet

Local Tips

Watch for loose rock on the talus approach, especially near the base of the climb.

Early season can feature significant snowfields; bring an ice axe for added security.

Be prepared for runout sections on pitches four and five; solid footwork and calm nerves are essential.

Descent involves crossing a couloir that can be hazardous—consider leaving slings for a rappel.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels honest with a punch, especially on the crux third pitch that climbs a short roof pegged at 5.9. The move requires precision and some power, supported by a fixed pin. The rest of the climb is moderate 5.4 to 5.7, but runout sections mean climbers should be comfortable with some exposure and smart gear placement. Compared to other Mt. Evans routes, this line leans into consistent alpine trad challenges rather than steep technicality.

Gear Requirements

Standard alpine rack up to 3 inches, plus small nuts and TCUs to protect tricky cracks. Early season ascents may require an ice axe for snowfield crossings.

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Tags

trad crack
alpine
roof crux
runout
summit ridge
snowfield approach
5.9 crux
exposed finish