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Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions: A Trad Challenge on Stewardess Convention Crag

Lyons, Colorado USA
trad
crack
finger traverse
bush obstacle
long pitch
lichen
quiet crag
multi-pitch
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions carves a quietly demanding path through the cracks of Stewardess Convention Crag. With a 100-foot single pitch blending solid jams, tricky traverses, and a touch of nature's wildness, this trad route waits for climbers who value both challenge and solitude."

Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions: A Trad Challenge on Stewardess Convention Crag

Set within the rugged contours of South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions offers climbers a raw and less-trodden trad route that tests technique and patience in equal measure. The climb unfolds over a single 100-foot pitch where you will find an engaging mix of solid rock and unexpected moves that demand both focus and finesse. Starting just a few meters left of Flight Attendant, the approach takes you beneath an overhanging roof before entering a quiet crack system, still adorned with patches of lichen that speak to its remote frequency. This route may not boast the lithe, polished holds of its neighbor Aviatrix, but its gritty, understated character delivers a rewarding experience for climbers seeking an offbeat line.

The climb’s character is shaped by its wandering path: an initial ascent upward and left below the roof transitions into a rightward finger traverse past a tangled bush clinging stubbornly to the rock. Passing this natural obstacle isn't a struggle if you opt to skirt right—here, patience pays off more than brute force. The following crack system, perched a few meters right of the bush, invites you into steeper terrain, culminating in a small bulge that demands solid jamming and confident gear placements. Protection is straightforward yet crucial; a standard rack to 3" gear suffices while an optional 4" piece can be placed for added security if desired. Longer slings come in handy when negotiating the pitch’s subtle shifting lines.

Despite its somewhat mellow rating of 5.8 PG13, the pitch presents moments of awkward body positioning and moves that can catch you off-guard, so approach it with deliberate attention. The pathway feels raw and unpolished—rock whispers its primal solidity underfoot, and the occasional lichen patches remind you this route is still growing into itself. Reaching the large belay tree at the top offers relief and a moment to savor the quiet canyon views spreading below.

Approaching the Stewardess Convention Crag requires a short trek that rewards with a peaceful and relatively untouched climbing experience. The crag itself is known for its variety of trad routes, ranging from straightforward to technical, set against the vibrant backdrop of Lyons, Colorado. Temper your expectations for crowds here; oxygen masks and float cushions attract climbers who appreciate a bit of solitude and the challenge of routes that aren’t standing-room-only. With proper preparation—sturdy footwear for the approach, layers for the variable canyon climate, and extra hydration—you can focus on the climb’s subtle complexities.

The route’s projection across shaded sections of the wall makes mid-morning to early afternoon climbs ideal, especially during spring and fall when the temperatures balance out Colorado’s sharp summer heat and winter chill. Descending involves a well-established walk down from the belay tree, though loose footing demands caution during the exit.

In essence, Oxygen Masks and Float Cushions is an understated gem for trad climbers eager to explore the creative puzzle of crack systems and traverse lines within a quiet, bold environment. It promises a blend of adventure and practicality—a relying on solid gear, patient climbing, and an appreciation for the rough edges that craft the route's unique identity in the St. Vrain canyons.

Climber Safety

Watch your foot placements carefully on mossy and lichen-covered sections to avoid slips. The bush near the mid-pitch can interfere with gear or movement if not navigated skillfully. Take extra care on the descent trail where loose rocks create potential hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start 7 meters left of Flight Attendant for an accurate approach to the route.

Be prepared for sections with lichen—cleaning may be necessary for optimal holds.

Use longer slings to reduce rope drag on traverses and awkward segments.

Plan your climb mid-morning to early afternoon to enjoy the best light and wall temperature.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 PG13 rating suggests a moderate difficulty with added mental challenge from protection placements and tricky moves. The crux lies in the finger traverse and the small bulge requiring solid jamming skills. This pitch feels slightly stiffer than a typical 5.8 due to these technical sequences, but it remains accessible with good technique. Compared to nearby Aviatrix, it offers more uneven, less polished climbing that rewards patience.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack up to 3 inches with an optional 4-inch piece for added security. Long slings are useful for managing rope drag on the wander-heavy sections.

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Tags

trad
crack
finger traverse
bush obstacle
long pitch
lichen
quiet crag
multi-pitch