HomeClimbingOverlooked Overhang

Overlooked Overhang: A Three-Pitch Trad Adventure on Boulder’s Second Flatiron

Boulder, Colorado United States
slab
overhang
trad gear
multi-pitch
exposed
flatirons
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Overlooked Overhang
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Discover a lesser-known three-pitch trad climb on Boulder's Second Flatiron that blends slab finesse with exposed slabs and sparse protection. Overlooked Overhang invites climbers seeking a balanced challenge far from the crowded classics."

Overlooked Overhang: A Three-Pitch Trad Adventure on Boulder’s Second Flatiron

Perched on the rugged contours of Boulder’s iconic Second Flatiron, the Overlooked Overhang offers an unassuming yet rewarding trad climb that challenges both your technique and your adventurous spirit. This route begins near a striking white patch—formed by age-old guano—resting atop a broad right-facing dihedral on the expansive slab marking the left flank of the Second Flatiron. Your approach leads you to a tree-lined ledge about 100 feet beneath this landmark, setting the stage for a climb that ties together precise slab climbing and subtle route-finding.

The first pitch invites you into a delicate dance across glistening slabs, where friction and foot placement govern progress. Two distinct crux sections guard the gentle overhang above, each demanding steady nerve and savvy gear placements. While no bolts punctuate the route, a single fixed pin punctuates the climb, instilling just a touch of history into the clean lines of stone. The belay stance, perched just beyond the lip of the overhang, provides both a solid hold and a moment to catch your breath amid the soaring vertical world.

Pitches two and three weave upward through thinner slabs, where protection grows scarce and the rock rewards confidence more than brute force. Here, the mountain feels less like an immutable fortress and more like a living entity, welcoming your ascent but testing your resolve with exposed slabs and sparse pro placements. Moving towards the summit, each step is measured, each placement deliberate, as you close in on Boulder’s expansive skyline spread below.

Though rated a moderate 5.8, the route’s character feels subtly nuanced—less about flashy moves and more about rhythm, balance, and the thoughtful management of risk. With its unbolted, gear-dependent line and a single fixed pin, Overlooked Overhang demands respect for clean climbing ethics and preparation for variable rock conditions. Timing your climb to early morning or late afternoon can help you dodge the midday sun that often bakes Flatiron’s slabs, enhancing grip and comfort.

Long considered secondary to the more trafficked classics in the Flatirons, this route rewards those who savor the quieter, less polished sides of Boulder’s granite playground. Whether you’re chasing skill refinement or a new trad journey, Overlooked Overhang blends straightforward climbing with moments of exposed tranquility that connect you deeply to the ascending mountain and vast Colorado horizon.

Approach footsteps crunch along mixed dirt and rock, a roughly 15-minute scramble from trailheads linked to the Flatirons’ northern corridors, making this both accessible and sufficiently remote to feel like an authentic alpine experience. Gear up with standard rack essentials but emphasize medium cams and small nuts to cover the subtle protection challenges. Remember hydration and sun protection; Boulder’s high desert climate shifts quickly even on sunny days. As you descend, quick rappels or cautious downclimbing guide your way back to the base, completing a satisfying loop through one of Colorado’s storied granite faces.

Climber Safety

The slabs on pitches two and three feature sparse protection and relatively thin gear options, which means confidence in gear placements and careful movement is crucial. Loose rock near the initial ledge and overhang area increases hazard potential—helmet use is essential. Descents should be planned carefully due to exposed rappels and downclimb sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid intense midday heat on the slabs.

Watch carefully for the subtle, thin gear placements on pitches 2 and 3.

Be prepared for a short scramble to the base ledge beneath the route.

Descend via rappel or cautious downclimb — check rope lengths and anchors before heading up.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Although rated 5.8, Overlooked Overhang can feel a bit stiffer due to its sustained slab climbing and two distinct crux moves on the first pitch. The lack of bolts ups the ante, requiring careful gear placement and solid footwork. Compared to other moderate Colorado Flatirons routes, it leans more on mental finesse than raw power.

Gear Requirements

Prepare a standard trad rack focusing on small to medium cams and nuts. The route is unbolted except for a single fixed pin near the overhang, so reliable active protection skill is key. Boots with sticky soles will serve well on the slab sections, and a helmet is recommended to guard against loose rock near the ledge approaches.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Overlooked Overhang and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

slab
overhang
trad gear
multi-pitch
exposed
flatirons