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Overdose at Quercus Cliff: A Precise Trad Challenge Above Squamish

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
trad
crack climbing
roof move
single pitch
technical
medium protection
Squamish granite
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Overdose
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Overdose is a precision trad climb threading a challenging 70-foot line on Squamish’s Quercus Cliff. Featuring a dynamic roof move, delicate footwork, and a technical shallow crack, it offers an engaging test of gear skills and climbing finesse."

Overdose at Quercus Cliff: A Precise Trad Challenge Above Squamish

Overdose offers a sharp, focused experience that cuts cleanly through one of Squamish’s most celebrated cliffs—Quercus. This single-pitch trad climb unfolds along about 70 feet of solid granite, perched midway up the Channeling Your Wheaties route. From the base, the climb immediately demands commitment, with a long reach required to pull through a roof section just past a fixed bolt. Precision in footwork and body positioning is essential here, as a carefully placed clip leads to a shallow crack inviting steady technical moves. This seam rewards close attention: placing gear is not simply about protection but understanding how the right cam or nut fits into the rock’s subtle contours, setting you up for the next transition.

The groove veers upward toward a horizontal break, breaking the rhythm with a moment to breathe and gauge the next moves. Gear placements range from 2-inch cams low in the corner to smaller brass nuts higher up, demanding a variety of sizes and doubled gear for confidence and security. The anchor sits on a sloping ledge, offering a final challenge before reaching the top and establishing solid stance.

This climb sits within the broader Murrin Park area, just a short drive from the vibrant town of Squamish, BC, a hotspot for climbers seeking varied and challenging trad routes that balance technical difficulty with natural movement. Quercus Cliff’s granite is known for its clean edges and texture that’s forgiving on hands but demands focused technique. The setting combines forested approach trails with the crisp smell of coastal pine and the faint sound of rushing water nearby, amplifying the immersive outdoor ambiance.

To approach, climbers follow well-marked trails that wind through dense woodland, covering less than 15 minutes with light pack gear. The cliff’s east-facing position means morning climbs find the face bathed in soft sun, while afternoon sessions bring cooler shade, making spring through early fall the best window for this line. Expect variable weather typical of coastal BC—rain gear is a wise addition even on dry forecasts.

Careful preparation is key: doubled cams up to 2 inches cover the crucial placements, supplemented by a handful of small nuts and offset brass options. The bolts provide some security, but the route’s rating, 5.12a, reflects a sustained technical crux centered on dynamic body movement and refined gear settings. This climb isn't about brute strength; it’s a dance of reach, balance, and gear smarts.

Descent is straightforward—rappel down the anchor with tidy rigging to avoid rope drag. The ledge offers good footing but demands alertness due to sloping angles and potential loose debris. Post-climb, the pullout into Squamish’s amenities and camping options invites reflection on the line’s subtle but rich challenges.

Overdose isn’t just a test of power — it’s a precise engagement with granite, a route that calls for thoughtful movement and careful placements, rewarding climbers willing to invest attention with an exhilarating, clean send. Whether integrating this pitch into a longer day on Quercus or tackling it as a standalone challenge, it promises the quality and character Squamish climbers seek in trad routes of this caliber.

Climber Safety

The sloping ledge at the anchor can feel unstable underfoot, especially if damp or littered with debris—take careful footing when setting up your rappel. Also, be mindful of the delicate placements in the crack to avoid gear shifts during critical moves.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun on the east-facing wall.

Bring doubled cams, particularly in the 1–2 inch range, to ensure coverage of tricky placements.

Approach trail is well-maintained but can be muddy after rain—shoe traction matters.

Careful body positioning during the roof sequence can conserve energy for the sustained crack above.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:At 5.12a, Overdose presents a serious but fair challenge. The crux lies in the powerful dynamic reach over the roof and the technical gear placements that follow, which require precision and calm. The grade feels appropriately stiff compared to other mid-12s in Squamish, with a clear though moderate crux before settling into the sustained crack climb that tests gear skills and movement balance.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes cams up to 2 inches for the corner start, small camming units and medium offset brass nuts for the upper shallow crack, plus doubling up on select sizes for added security. Two bolts aid clipping above the roof feature.

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Tags

trad
crack climbing
roof move
single pitch
technical
medium protection
Squamish granite