"Out to Easter in The Smoke Bluffs offers a tight, enjoyable trad climb with a flowing left-leaning crack and dependable protection. Perfect for climbers looking to sharpen crack technique on a solid 5.9 pitch within Squamish’s iconic granite walls."
Out to Easter offers a focused burst of trad climbing set against the striking backdrop of The Smoke Bluffs, a renowned climbing area within Squamish, British Columbia. This route presents a single 60-foot pitch that channels the pure satisfaction of well-protected crack climbing, where the rock’s texture invites confident hand jams and precise foot placements. Starting at the crack that marks the beginning of the adjacent Out to Lunge, climbers move left along a left-leaning crack, a line that demands steady technique and rewards with bomber handholds and positive edges. The lower section requires careful smearing below the crack, engaging both balance and friction in an approachable but mindful manner.
The rock here feels alive, its cool granite challenging your grip as you ascend. The crack’s shape guides your hands and feet upward, establishing a rhythm that’s playful yet purposeful. The fixed protection—modern bolts capped with chains—offers a reliable anchor at the top, while the gear placements along the way call for a rack including Purple to Blue Camalots. Solid placements include two red and two green pieces, fitting snugly into the crack’s varying widths.
Climbers often appreciate Out to Easter for its blend of easy-to-read beta with a few crux moves that keep the experience engaging without crossing into overly committing territory. The 5.9 rating is generous here, reflecting a climb that bumps up in difficulty at the finger crack but feels fair overall given the quality of handholds and secure gear placements. Thanks to its single pitch and accessible length, this route is ideal for climbers pushing into solid 5.9 territory looking to sharpen crack technique in a scenic setting.
The Smoke Bluffs itself is an area marked by massive granite faces and a lively climbing community. The climate leans toward dry and mild, and the crag’s west-facing walls catch plenty of sunlight in the morning and early afternoon, making morning starts particularly rewarding. Arriving early also helps avoid the crowds typical on weekends. Approaches are short and straightforward, with a trail weaving through forested terrain that retains the scent of pine and damp earth, grounding you before the climb’s physical demands take hold.
Gear considerations lean towards versatility in cam sizes, with particular emphasis on Purple (0.5 inch) through Blue (#3 Camalots) to confidently protect the crack’s variation in width. Beginners venturing into gear placements will find the cam slots intuitive and solid, while more experienced climbers will appreciate the security these options provide. Anchors at the summit, equipped with bolts and chains, allow for safe belay and easy lowering or rap descent.
Seasonally, late spring through early fall offers the best conditions, avoiding the wet spells typical of coastal British Columbia winters. Footwear with sticky rubber is essential given the smearing sections, and hydration for the approach and summit is recommended despite the short hike to the climb’s base. Beta tips include visualizing moves before reaching and trusting the hand jams progressively, a reminder that patience and rhythm pay off on this route.
Out to Easter is more than a line up a rock face; it’s a concise climb that challenges technique and provides a rewarding sense of accomplishment in a lively outdoor setting. Whether new to trad climbing or refining crack skills, this route invites you to engage with the granite’s personality and make every move count.
While gear placements are generally solid, climbers should approach the smearing section carefully and commit only when confident in their footwork. Weather can impact friction, so avoid wet conditions. The approach trail is short but rocky; wear sturdy shoes to prevent slips before the climb.
Arrive early to enjoy cooler morning conditions and avoid peak crowds.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for the smearing section below the crack.
Bring hydration even though the approach is short, especially in warmer months.
Visualize hand movements and place gear deliberately for sustained safety.
Use a selection of Camalots from Purple (0.5) to Blue (#3) for solid protection along the varying crack widths. Expect to place two red and two green cams with secure placements. Top anchors are bolted chains.
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