HomeClimbingOriginal Route

Original Route: A Classic Trad Climb in Powell River's Rugged Terrain

Powell River, British Columbia Canada
dihedral
chimney
multi-pitch
no fixed anchors
traditional protection
finish fins
clean cracks
Length: 800 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Original Route
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Original Route offers eight pitches of classic trad climbing along clean cracks and a striking dihedral near Powell River. With its demanding placements and chimney moves, it’s a solid choice for climbers prepared for a rugged multi-pitch adventure."

Original Route: A Classic Trad Climb in Powell River's Rugged Terrain

In the heart of British Columbia’s coastal range, the Original Route stands as a compelling invitation for climbers seeking a solid traditional challenge set against expansive wilderness. Located near Powell River, this 800-foot route unfolds over eight pitches that demand not only physical endurance but a thoughtful approach to gear and movement. From the base, the climb begins with a striking left-facing dihedral, its clean lines and inviting cracks promising technical engagement. As you ascend, the vertical crack system reveals itself clearly, guiding hands and feet upward through sustained fifth-class climbing that rewards patience and precision.

Midway, the route veers toward a natural alcove, a quiet pocket tucked along the rock face where you can briefly regain composure before pressing onward. The passage here shifts into a chimney that pushes climbers to use body tension and balance against the rock’s steady walls, a section where fluidity meets focus. Beyond the chimney, the route stretches toward the distinct "finish fins," slender features that mark the climb’s climax, demanding controlled moves and confident placements.

Protection on the route consists primarily of a double set of cams up to 4 inches in size, complemented by nuts that slide neatly into the clean cracks. No fixed anchors exist, reflecting the route’s commitment to a traditional ethic—each belay is fashioned from gear placements carefully built to secure your position. Climbers should prepare with two 60-meter ropes to execute the descent, which involves rappelling according to the topo.

Surrounding the climb, the British Columbia wilderness offers an unspoiled landscape characteristic of the coastal mountain range. The air carries the sharp freshness of cedar and fir that flank the approach trails, contrasted by the distant calls of seabirds and the steady rhythm of nearby rivers. Reaching the wall requires a straightforward but firm approach; expect well-trodden forest paths and mild elevation gain setting the stage for an encounter with the stone.

For those ready to engage, this route delivers a balanced blend of adventure and technique. It’s a rewarding outing for climbers familiar with placing gear, pacing long approaches, and managing multi-pitch efficiency. Weather can shift rapidly here, so bringing layered clothing and timing your climb for stable conditions during summer and early fall improves safety and enjoyment. Hydration remains critical, as the exertion and coastal sun demand steady water intake despite the verdant surroundings.

Overall, the Original Route provides an authentic traditional climbing experience in British Columbia’s wild outdoors. It’s a climb that encourages respect for the rock, the gear, and the rhythm of movement—crafted for those who seek challenge without artifice, set amid one of Canada’s enduring climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

No fixed anchors require solid knowledge of trad gear placements and rappel techniques. Rock quality is generally stable but expect some loose debris near the alcove. Be prepared for sudden weather changes, and keep track of rope management on multi-pitch transitions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches8
Length800 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon wind and potential rain on exposed pitches.

Wear sturdy trad shoes with good edging for sustained crack climbs.

Check rope length and rappel gear carefully; fixed anchors are not present.

Hydrate well and pack layers—coastal weather shifts quickly.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating holds true to traditional standards, offering a well-graded challenge with a handful of technical crack sections and a sustained crux in the chimney. The absence of fixed anchors means careful gear placement is crucial, adding to the route’s seriousness without overstating difficulty. Compared to other classic BC multi-pitches, it balances steady climbing with moments that emphasize precision over power.

Gear Requirements

Carry a double set of cams up to 4 inches and a reliable assortment of nuts. Two 60-meter ropes are essential for the ascent and rappels due to no fixed anchors on the route.

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Tags

dihedral
chimney
multi-pitch
no fixed anchors
traditional protection
finish fins
clean cracks