"Orifice Fish presents a compelling warm-up climb in Squamish’s Split Beaver, combining accessible crack climbing with physical jams. It’s an ideal first pitch to prepare for more demanding routes in this high-profile trad sector."
At the heart of British Columbia’s renowned Smoke Bluffs lies Orifice Fish, a single-pitch trad climb that delivers a straightforward yet physically engaging introduction to the Split Beaver sector. As you step onto this route, the rock’s solid texture invites you to test your crack-jamming technique, where the challenge comes less from complexity and more from persistence and body positioning. Orifice Fish demands focused finger and hand work, as the crack calls for a series of contorted jams that push you to tune into your climbing sequence and finesse your form.
The route stretches sixty feet up a steadily narrowing crack etched into quartz diorite stone, firm and reliable beneath your hands. The climb’s character is direct—there are no confusing features to navigate. You simply follow the crack’s natural line, a serpentine channel daring you to move upward with smooth, deliberate motions. Unlike some climbs in the area that favor endurance or tricky sequences, Orifice Fish challenges your ability to engage with the rock’s rhythm and your jam placements with precision.
Located within Smoke Bluffs Provincial Park, this climb offers more than just physical engagement. The surrounding forest stands tall and quiet, occasionally vibrating with the song of birds or the rustle of wind through the pines. The atmosphere is calm yet charged with the collective energy of generations of climbers who have tested their skills here. Whether you’re warming up for the adjacent Heavenly Ladder or seeking a reliable route to hone your crack climbing, Orifice Fish fits seamlessly into a balanced climbing day.
Protection is straightforward: a standard trad rack covers all the gear placements you'll need, making setup efficient and uncomplicated. The crisp crack accepts cams and nuts comfortably, while bolts at the top of the route provide solid anchors for your belay. This practical gear layout lets climbers focus on movement and technique without worrying about complex or marginal placements.
Approach is friendly and fast, with well-marked trails cutting through the ancient Douglas fir forest. Expect a 10-15 minute walk from the main Smoke Bluffs parking area directly into the Split Beaver zone. The terrain underfoot is mixed earth and rock, gentle in slope but always reminding you the wild is close by. Climbing here is best during spring through fall, avoiding wet or icy conditions that can make the crack slippery and less secure.
Whether you’re a seasoned climber calibrating your crack skills or an enthusiastic newcomer carving your way up your first traditional line, Orifice Fish offers a dependable dose of that Smoky Bluff grit and charm in a compact, single-pitch package. Its approachable nature belies a physical demand that keeps you honest and engaged, rewarding those who listen closely to their body’s alignment and gear choices. Prepare your rack, lace up sturdy boots, and accept the invitation to move deliberately with the rock here at Split Beaver.
Watch for sharp edges along the crack that can catch slings or cause abrasions. Bolts at the top ensure safe anchor placement, but approach with controlled movements to avoid jamming fingers too aggressively.
Approach via well-marked trails from the Smoke Bluffs parking lot, roughly 10 minutes.
Wear gloves if your skin is sensitive; the crack demands harder jams that can rough up hands.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun on the climb—morning brings cooler, grippier rock.
Check for dampness after rain; wet cracks reduce friction and complicate placements.
Bring a standard trad rack: a set of cams from small to medium sizes and a selection of nuts will cover the crack effectively. Bolted anchors top out the climb for secure belays.
Upload your photos of Orifice Fish and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.