O'Neall Overhang sits quietly just a few steps left of the more frequented Heads or Tails? route in Boulder Canyon’s Turtle Rock area, offering climbers a compact but challenging experience that tests raw strength and precise footwork. This single-pitch, 40-foot trad climb throws an immediate physical curveball with an overhanging start, daring you to engage your upper body before transitioning onto a more manageable slab.

From the moment your fingertips find the jug at the lip, the rock demands your full attention. The overhang doesn’t give its secrets easily—hidden holds require a keen eye and confident placement to pull through efficiently. Once past the initial roof, the slab opens up, offering a breath of relief with less steep terrain and a series of smaller holds that reward careful footwork and balance.

Turtle Rock itself is a gem in Boulder Canyon, a favorite spot for families and beginners alike, though O'Neall Overhang raises the stakes with its steep entry. The rock is solid, typical Jurassic sandstone with occasional pockets that provide excellent friction for smearing and jamming. The route appeals to climbers looking to sharpen their power moves while practicing trad gear placements in a well-protected environment.

Protection centers on standard cams, and while the placements aren’t overly complex, their reliability is crucial for safely managing the overhang’s pull. Many climbers find this route best enjoyed on a top rope setup until comfortable with the placements and the physical crux. The approach from the Turtle Rock parking lot is straightforward, with a short walk on clear trails leading directly to the base in under 10 minutes.

Timing your climb in mid-spring through early fall maximizes comfort, as the east-facing wall catches morning sun but remains shaded by afternoon, avoiding the harsh summer afternoon heat common at elevation. Given its relatively short length and moderate difficulty rating, O'Neall Overhang is a fantastic option for those stepping up into 5.9-level trad routes or anyone wanting to work power moves in a focused burst.

Keep your footwear aggressive but supportive, and pack plenty of water — Boulder’s dry air and elevation can sneak up on you. Prepare with a focused warm-up since the route’s opening demands strength and commitment. The descent is simple, a quick walk off to the base, no rappels required. Overall, O'Neall Overhang offers a compelling mix of challenge and accessibility against the rugged outdoor backdrop of Boulder Canyon’s beloved Turtle Rock area.