"One Ton Son cuts through Shelf Road’s shaded Far Side, offering a tight vertical climb that blends smooth sport bolts with technical stemming. It’s a perfect short route for climbing when the sun is high and the heat relentless."
One Ton Son on Shelf Road’s Far Side offers a compact yet satisfying sport climb that challenges your technique without demanding extreme power. The entire route stays shaded, shielding climbers from the harsh Colorado sun and providing a cool respite ideal for summer or midday ascents. From the moment you clip into the first bolt, the climb holds a focused vertical rhythm before transitioning into a subtle stemming section that tests your balance and footwork as you reach for the final set of chained anchors. The rock is solid, typical of Shelf Road’s sandstone, but climbers should stay mindful of occasionally sharp edges and maintain presence of mind when lowering, as the belay ledge is modest in size. At only 50 feet, it’s an accessible route that packs a technical punch within a short span, perfect for seasoned climbers looking for a quick refresher or enthusiasts developing sport lead skills. Getting here involves navigating the winding switchbacks of Shelf Road, itself a journey embraced by the arid landscape and striking canyon views. The route’s relatively low star rating reflects a straightforward character rather than a lack of appeal: it’s all about purity and precision over flash. Prepare for clipping eight bolts to reach the chains, and keep your rack light but ready for fastdraw swaps. Whether you’re running through sport routes across Colorado’s south-central climbing zones or seeking a cooler option on warmer days, One Ton Son quietly demands respect and rewards precision from the first hold to the final clip.
Mind the reduced space at the belay chains when lowering; stay aware of your partner’s position and manage rope slack carefully to avoid back injury or awkward falls.
Route remains fully in shade—great choice during summer heat.
Watch carefully when lowering due to a tighter belay ledge.
Approach via Shelf Road’s switchbacks for scenic views en route.
Keep your feet precise during the stemming moves near the top.
Bring a light rack with eight sport draws to clip the bolts to the anchored chains, ideal for a clean and swift lead.
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