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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples: A Squamish Slab Adventure

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
slab
multi-pitch
trad-sport
granite
exposed
technical moves
north-east facing
moderate protection
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad, Sport
Stars
Pitches
5
Location
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This seldom-visited slab route at The Apron beckons climbers with its technical pitches and thoughtful protection. Offering five steep pitches up smoothly polished granite, it delivers a true test of slab technique without the crowd—the perfect antidote for slab aficionados in Squamish."

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples: A Squamish Slab Adventure

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples offers a compelling plunge into the steep slab climbing that distinguishes The Apron at the base of The Chief in Squamish, British Columbia. This five-pitch route stretches approximately 600 feet along a demanding wall peppered with bolts and natural features, making it a balanced challenge for trad and sport climbers alike. Unlike the crowded classic lines nearby, this climb tends to stay quiet, giving adventurers space to focus on their footwork and slab technique.

The approach draws climbers past well-known lines like Over the Rainbow and Banana Peel, arriving at the right end of a broad slab face that demands steady nerves and attentive gear placement. The slab here isn’t just a flat expanse; it curves and angles beneath your fingers and toes, with subtle nubbins and smears that test your precision. The first pitch immediately sets the tone with a 10b crux, its polished slab requiring delicate movement and a sharp eye for balance as you navigate bolts and a tree ledge.

Pitch two intensifies the experience by moving into a steep, almost puzzle-like 10c slab that leans on both boldness and control. Here, climbers must thread the needle through a rock depression with bolts guiding the way, all the while maintaining composure on slippery stone that challenges your ability to read the rock. A belay station at a sizable tree-filled ledge offers a brief respite before the upward push continues.

If you chose a lower belay on pitch two, prepare for a longer pitch three—40 to 50 meters of straight-up climbing where precision footwork and mental focus take center stage. The bolted line continues upward on steep slab that rewards steady breathing and confident smears.

Pitch four holds the route’s third crux with a sequence of slippery slab moves near some overlapped vegetation. This pitch demands that you dig deeper to find subtle holds and manage risk, with bolts helping keep protection in place but no room for hesitancy. The final pitch softens to a mostly 5.7 slab climb leading to the Broadway ledge, allowing a chance to unwind and absorb the expansive views that sweep across the Squamish Valley below.

Protection blends sport bolts with select traditional gear placements, particularly recommended in the upper sections where the rock opens up near Sparrow and the start of pitch four. Relying exclusively on fixed bolts is risky; bringing a light rack with medium to small cams and some nuts will boost confidence and safety.

The setting itself—a sprawling granite apron carved by winds and weather—invites climbers into a realm where focus on technique meets the primal joy of exposure and movement. The route runs north-east facing, catching morning sun that softens the granite’s harsh glare and offering the best conditions from late spring through early fall. The approach trail is straightforward, a stable hiking path from the base of The Chief parking area, taking roughly 20 minutes to reach the base coordinates at 49.6863, -123.1474.

One Scoop with Delicious Dimples may not boast the popularity of nearby classics, but its blend of slab climbing, sparse crowds, and natural beauty makes it an essential line for those ready to sharpen their skills in one of Canada’s premier climbing areas. Be prepared for variable footing, bring solid slab shoes, and time your run to avoid the afternoon heat, especially in the summer months. This climb is a reminder that in climbing, sometimes the quiet, hidden slabs teach the loudest lessons.

Climber Safety

Take care on the slippery slab sections, especially near the cruxes where bolt spacing offers security but demands confident movement. Tree anchors can be useful but verify their stability. Seasonal wet conditions can make the slab dangerously slick—avoid climbing after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Sport
Pitches5
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Bring precision slab shoes for enhanced friction on polished granite.

Start early to avoid afternoon sun heating the rock.

Pack some medium to small cams to supplement bolt protection.

Expect fewer climbers here; route offers excellent solitude.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10c with three distinct crux sections, this climb feels appropriately challenging yet fair. The slab moves may tempt climbers to over-grip, but careful foot placement keeps the difficulty in check. Compared to tougher slabs in Leavenworth or Yosemite, this route offers a slightly softer feel due to solid protection and manageable hold sizes.

Gear Requirements

While mostly bolted, climbers will want a rack including small to medium cams and nuts for select gear placements near Sparrow and pitch four's start. Tree anchors supplement fixed bolts for belays.

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Tags

slab
multi-pitch
trad-sport
granite
exposed
technical moves
north-east facing
moderate protection