5.6, Trad
Miramichi
Canada
"One Night in Copenhagen offers a clear, focused trad climb up Moe Wall’s steep crack systems. With a single pitch threading through tightening cracks and bolted anchors atop, it’s a solid choice for climbers seeking a moderate challenge with reliable protection in a quiet New Brunswick setting."
One Night in Copenhagen carves a compact yet rewarding path up Moe Wall on McQuirks Mountain, offering climbers a straightforward trad experience amid the rugged wilderness of New Brunswick. The route begins at the anchor known as Too Drunk and swiftly leads into a short, steep crack system. This crack, inclined back after about 20 feet, demands careful footwork and steady hand jams as it angles skyward. The rock here feels solid but commands respect, with occasional runouts that call for confidence and attention to gear placement.
As you ascend, the crack widens and narrows, challenging you to read the route while maintaining rhythm. The line continues past this tightening section, following natural fissures etched into the stone all the way to the summit—an accessible 100 feet in length that fits neatly into a single pitch. Moose Wall's granite, cool and textured, invites tactile exploration, with enough variation to keep fingers busy but never overwhelmed.
Protection is vital here: a standard rack up to four inches is necessary, with cams in the #1 through #3 Camalot range most frequently called upon. Despite a bolted anchor securing the top, the pitch itself requires placing your own gear carefully, as the crack occasionally runs out into slimmer sections that test your judgment. The setting is remote enough to inspire focus—dense firs fringe the base, and the mountain’s exposure opens toward sweeping views of the wild landscape. The quiet hum of forest life pulses around you, broken only by the scrape of rock against metal as runners snap into place.
Weather plays a crucial role in planning your climb. Early summer through fall brings dry conditions ideal for friction, but be wary of lingering moisture that can sneak into cracks after rain. The wall faces a direction that catches warm afternoon sun, so timing your ascent for morning hours can mean the difference between chilly grips and sticky holds warmed by light.
For climbers setting out on One Night in Copenhagen, preparation and respect for the mountain’s rhythm will make the difference. Don’t skimp on a full rack, stay vigilant about footing on sections that angle back unexpectedly, and savor the intimacy of this short but exacting crag. Whether you’re easing into trad climbing or adding a solid 5.6 to your repertoire, this route offers a clear window into McQuirks Mountain’s deliberate charm and quiet challenge.
Stay vigilant on sections where the crack thins out and runouts occur; precise gear placement is critical. The approach trail can have loose rocks and uneven footing—wear sturdy shoes and watch your step.
Approach Moe Wall in dry conditions to ensure solid friction on granite.
Morning climbs benefit from cooler holds before the afternoon sun warms the face.
Double up on medium cams for added security in runout crack sections.
The descent involves carefully retracing your steps back to the base; keep an eye on loose rock on the approach trail.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to 4 inches, focusing on #1 through #3 Camalot sizes. Bolted anchors top the route, but the climb demands careful gear placements due to occasional runouts.
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