Old Stone Face sits quietly near the summit of Cabrillo Peak in California's Central Coast, offering climbers a rare blend of challenge and solitude just steps from busier routes. This lesser-known climbing destination rewards those willing to venture beyond the usual crowds at Rockland and El Dorado with a handful of rewarding trad lines led by natural cracks and pocketed faces. The routes here offer a balanced mix of difficulty—a trio of fun 5.11 trad routes, a sporty 5.12 testpiece, and several more approachable climbs that make it a welcome pit stop for climbers seeking variety and quality without the hassle of crowds.

Accessing Old Stone Face requires a bit of bushwhacking and trail savvy. The approach skirts the back side of the crag, where a thin hands crack named TommyHawk (around 5.6) provides the route up to the base for top roping. Dress for the hike: long pants and sturdy shoes are a must due to poison oak lurking in the brush. The climb up is short but textured by the natural landscape, so pacing yourself while keeping an eye on your footing is essential.

Once at the base, you’ll find solid anchors in good shape but bring gear to extend them for top rope anchors. These fixed anchors make this area a prime spot for both lead climbing and top roping practice. Classic climbs here include Brain Surgery (5.11a), a route that consistently earns high praise for its engaging moves, and Nasal Drip (5.11), a slightly softer but no less interesting challenge. Both reward climbers with the natural roughness of the rock and an exposure that feels just right—not intimidating but definitely thrilling.

The rock here is firm and textured, typical of the formations around San Luis Obispo, and the routes offer hands-on cracks with slabby sections that demand foot finesse and finger strength. These elements combine to provide a well-rounded experience for trad climbers looking for technical diversity without extreme rope stretches.

Approaching the crag from the main summit trail, keep Old Stone Face visible on your left before cutting over carefully. If you find yourself pushing through thick brush, you’ve taken the shortcut too soon. The reward for this careful navigation is a quiet spot with clear views and a climbing experience that feels removed from the tourist throngs.

Weather here generally favors climbing from late winter through early fall, with mild coastal temps and low precipitation making it appealing year-round compared to hotter inland spots. Ideal climb times are mornings or late afternoons to avoid direct sun, as the wall’s orientation offers partial shade during these windows.

Descent is straightforward with climbers able to downclimb safely or rappel off the well-maintained anchors. Planning your rappel length and double-checking gear before committing will keep your exit smooth without surprises.

Old Stone Face is a rewarding find for adventurers who want to escape the well-trodden paths but still crave the excitement of technical trad climbing and quality rock. Its mixture of routes appeals to varied skill levels, and the atmospheric setting—combined with solid protection and anchor points—makes it an ideal half-day excursion for local climbers or visitors to San Luis Obispo looking to add authentic trad terrain to their itinerary.

Classic climbs like Brain Surgery and Nasal Drip offer just enough challenge to keep you coming back, whether you aim to finesse tricky crack moves or simply soak in the stunning views from the summit area. Pack your rack, come prepared for brushy approach sections, and get ready to experience a section of the Central Coast’s rock climbing scene that flies under the radar yet delivers a genuine, satisfying climbing experience.