"Old Easy in Vedauwoo offers a rewarding mix of classic crack and slab climbing, set against Wyoming's expansive rocky landscape. From iconic routes like MRC Direct to hidden gems requiring adventure and skill, this crag invites climbers ready to explore and challenge themselves."
Old Easy is one of Vedauwoo’s hallmark crags, standing out not just for its accessibility but for a distinct character that invites exploration. Across a small valley from the Fall Wall, this rock face commands attention with several classic routes like MRC Direct, alongside quieter but compelling sectors like the Golden Triangle and the Pelvic Area. The climbs here offer a variety of crack systems and slab techniques that will test your finesse as much as your strength.
Set in the high desert of Wyoming, the area around Old Easy balances ruggedness with open space. Approaching the crag requires a short hike along the Box Canyon Trail, which starts at the Fall Wall parking lot. In about 200 yards, you reach a massive boulder crowned with a picnic table—a natural meeting spot and the gateway to the climbs. From this point, trails and scrambling routes lead upwards over fractured slabs and occasional loose rock toward the base. The approach rewards you with panoramic views of the Vedauwoo rock formations and open sky.
Climbing at Old Easy leans into classic crack climbing styles and varied slab sequences. While MRC Direct (rated 5.9) is a standout route boasting smooth flow and solid protection, many other climbs like Golden Grief (5.8 slabs and jam cracks) and Ascending Colon (5.7 hands) offer less crowded but equally rewarding experiences. For those who thrive on finger cracks, Finger Fantasy (12a) is a must-check route that demands precise technique and patience.
This area shines in spring and fall when the weather cools down, as summers can bring warmth that makes slab holds slick or sunburn probable. The east-facing exposures mean morning shade transitions into afternoon sun — plan your climbs accordingly. Equipment-wise, Old Easy calls for a solid rack of traditional gear. Crack climbers should carry a full set of cams and nuts to handle finger to hand-sized cracks, while climbers on slab sequences should be comfortable with less gear and more friction-based movement.
The classic bouldering problems near Old Easy add another dimension to the experience, with favorites ranging from V3 to V10 grades. Among these, The Biggest Tits in Country Music (V3) and The Red Snapper (V10) stand out for their unique movement and difficulty. The quality of the rock is generally good but keep in mind some routes see less traffic, so a cautious approach is wise, especially on less traveled climbs where loose rock and fragile holds might be present.
Descending from climbs involves careful downclimbing or shorter scrambles back to the approach boulder. No technical rappels are usually needed, but staying attentive on the broken slabs and transitions is key to a safe retreat. The combination of classic routes, lesser-known gems, and a distinctive boulder problem collection makes Old Easy a compelling destination for climbers looking to expand their experience in Wyoming’s Vedauwoo area.
Whether it’s finger cracks, slab climbing, or bouldering challenges that draw you, Old Easy presents an adventure that’s as much about thoughtful movement and routefinding as raw power. Bring your patience, some solid trad gear, and a spirit to explore - the rewards are in the quality of movement and the quiet beauty of this unique landscape.
Watch your footing on the approach and descent—the terrain features broken slabs and scattered loose rock that necessitate cautious movement. Some less frequented routes can have unstable holds or fragile rock; always test placements and avoid soloing unfamiliar lines.
Begin your approach from the Fall Wall parking lot via the Box Canyon Trail, marked by a large picnic boulder.
Spring and fall offer the best climbing conditions with cooler temps and balanced sun exposure.
Bring a full trad rack; gear scarcity on some cracks means you need reliable protection.
Take care on less traveled routes—scrambling terrain can include loose slabs and small boulders.
Old Easy demands a solid traditional rack, including cams and nuts from finger to hand sizes. Climbers tackling slab and crack routes should prepare for a mix of secure placements and smearing on high-friction granite. A few bouldering pads are recommended for the challenging problems in the area.
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