"Discover the raw intensity of ice and mixed climbing at the north side of Wyoming’s MRC Complex. These sharp, demanding routes thrive in winter’s cold grip, offering climbers a tough but rewarding experience far from the summer crowds."
When winter tightens its grip on the rugged terrain of Central Vedauwoo, the MRC Complex north side transforms into a stark arena of ice and mixed climbing. Here, short yet demanding ice flows and mixed lines carve their way along the broad chimney that cleaves the dome from west to east. These routes appear each winter as snowmelt sculpts the ice formations from the cliffs above—ephemeral, sharp, and unforgiving. Climbers ready to test their skills will find the approach as much a part of the experience as the climbing itself, with cold air sharp against exposed skin and a quiet, bone-deep stillness hanging over the forested trails.
The journey begins from the Box Canyon parking area, a winter gateway where vehicle access ends and boots take over. To reach the highest concentration of ice climbs, trek around the west side of the MRC Complex via the easy-going Turtle Rock trail. At a small saddle just south of the Crystal Freeway, route-finders cut upward toward the icy routes waiting above. For those drawn to the distinctive chimney on the south side, a straightforward slab ascent from the parking offers direct access.
At 8,437 feet elevation, the crisp mountain air carries a certain discipline, demanding preparedness and patience. The ice here tends to be thin and bony, so conditions fluctuate with every freeze and thaw cycle, making timing essential. Climbers looking to take on classics like Unnamed TR (WI5) and World Out of Balance (WI3) will find solid challenges — each route a test of careful movement and ice tool precision.
Weather in this region swings with the seasons but winter holds the crown as prime climbing season. The thin ice is conditioned by snowmelt from the dome’s summit, meaning reliable conditions can be fleeting, urging climbers to monitor forecasts closely before heading out. While the approach trails are maintained by the area’s wilderness stewards, always prepare for cold, slippery footing and potential avalanche risk though the routes themselves are not in avalanche-prone terrain.
Gear-wise, expect to bring technical ice tools, crampons, and standard mixed climbing protection. Given the short but technical nature, climbers will want to pack efficiently but be ready for sharp ice edges and mixed terrain that demands precision.
Upon summiting, climbers are rewarded with sweeping views of the vast Laramie Basin and the jagged ridgelines that frame Vedauwoo. The descent is typically a walk-off via the trail system, but conditions can be slick, so caution remains vital.
Access to the MRC Complex ice climbs is managed under USFS guidelines, and visitors should keep informed of any bolt issues or access notices through official Forest Service updates and local climbing community resources.
For those seeking a winter climbing experience that balances exposure, adventure, and technical challenge, the MRC Complex north face leaves a lasting impression. Its sparse but fierce ice lines demand focus and respect, making each ascent a serious yet invigorating endeavor in Wyoming’s wild heart.
Ice routes are heavily dependent on snowmelt and freeze cycles; conditions can change rapidly. Prepare for brittle and thin ice sections. Approaches involve walking on potentially slick trails and slabs—use caution and proper traction. Keep an eye on USFS access updates and avoid climbing during unstable weather or avalanche warnings.
Start at the Box Canyon parking area during winter as road closures restrict vehicle access.
Use the Turtle Rock trail to approach the steepest and most concentrated ice on the north side.
Check recent weather and snowmelt reports to gauge ice quality before heading out.
Wear microspikes or carry traction for icy approaches, especially on slabs near the chimney.
Technical ice axes and crampons are essential. Protection includes standard ice screws and mixed climbing gear. Routes are short, so light rack recommended. Conditions depend heavily on snowmelt, so equipment for fragile, thin ice is advised.
Upload your photos of and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.