"Old Dog, New Tricks is a spirited 150-foot sport climb on Kernville's granite slabs that challenges you with friction moves and well-placed bolts. A finger crack variation adds trad flavor for those seeking a technical twist."
Old Dog, New Tricks offers a fresh challenge on the slick slabs of Kernville Rock, inviting climbers into a well-bolted sport route that blends technical footwork with sustained movement. This 150-foot pitch begins a few steps left of the established line 'Well, It Looked Easy,' shifting the focus to precise friction climbing and clever sequencing. From the moment your hands touch the textured granite, you’re engaged in a contest with the rock: starting with a right-to-left foot smear to clip the first bolt, you’ll face the crux as you navigate past it, aiming for a shallow sloping ledge just above and left. Mantling here demands control and balance, setting the tone for the next section—a tight right-facing corner where silent focus meets fluid motion.
The route continues upward and leftward, threading through several overlaps that break the climb into manageable, confident moves. Bolts are generously spaced though never complacent, requiring purposeful body positioning and steady breathing. The final pitch section delivers a satisfying conclusion at a two-bolt belay, anchored with quicklinks to secure your rope systems. A recommended double rope rappel is essential for a safe descent, and some climbers suggest bringing two 60-meter ropes to avoid any rope drag or tension.
For those attracted to a bit of variation, there’s a neat detour at the ninth bolt where you can head right toward a manzanita bush and tackle a thin finger crack. Protected by nuts and cams up to #4, this 5.7 crack introduces a traditional element amidst the sport line. Beyond this, a second pitch continues upward with moderate difficulty, offering another 6 well-placed bolts and access to a challenging overhanging dihedral rated at 5.12—reserved for climbers ready to push their limits.
Access to Kernville Rock is straightforward, with a short approach through scrub and brush that keeps you grounded in the Southern Sierra landscape. Expect consistent sun exposure through much of the day, making early morning starts beneficial during warmer months. The granite’s texture sometimes demands precise rubber placement, so sturdy climbing shoes and well-tuned feet will pay dividends here. Bringing a full rack of quickdraws plus optional traditional gear allows flexibility depending on your chosen variation.
Overall, Old Dog, New Tricks represents the lively spirit of Kern Slabs: approachable yet engaging, with moves that reward attention to detail and movement economy. Whether you are dialing in your sport technique or mixing in some crack climbing, this route plants you squarely in the blend of grit and grace that defines Southern Sierra climbing. Treat the rock with respect, plan your rope work carefully, and enjoy the sharp-focus climbing this line demands.
Watch your footing on the mantle at the crux and be mindful of loose brush near the manzanita bush if you attempt the crack variation. The rappel anchors require proper rope management and double rope use to avoid stuck ropes.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed granite slabs.
Double rope rappel at the two-bolt anchor requires trailing ropes—don't short-rope it.
Bring shoes with sticky rubber to manage friction moves effectively.
Consider the finger crack variation for some trad climbing flare with small cams and nuts.
Bring 11 quickdraws to clip all bolts along the main pitch plus optional traditional gear sized nuts to #4 cams for the finger crack variation. Two 60-meter ropes are recommended for a smooth double rope rappel at descent.
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