"OJ Tower offers an accessible 50-foot trad climb behind Oregon Jack’s powerful notch. With a mix of bolts and small cams, this moderate 5.9 pitch blends steady footwork and straightforward protection for a memorable single-pitch trad experience near Kamloops."
OJ Tower presents a straightforward yet satisfying climb just behind the imposing rock formation in the notch. Starting at the base, the left arete demands attentive footwork and steady hands as you navigate a sequence of bolts spaced to offer security alongside optional traditional gear placements. This pitch, stretching roughly 50 feet, strikes a balance between technical challenge and accessible climbing, making it a compelling choice for those refining their trad skills or seeking a short adventure climb. The rock’s texture provides reliable friction and the climb’s position offers glimpses of the surrounding rugged landscape of the Pinnacle Area, framing the experience with natural quiet and a bit of exposed height.
Protection on OJ Tower is straightforward but must be planned: a small rack of cams complements three bolts strategically placed along the route. The top anchors are solid, featuring a fixed two-bolt rappel station that simplifies the descent and provides peace of mind after the move-intensive section. While the route is rated 5.9—a solid, moderate grade—some climbers may find the moves on the arete require precise balance and careful foot placements, especially since protection is limited. The approach to OJ Tower is tucked within the broader Oregon Jack region near Kamloops, British Columbia, a locale known for wild forest stretches and rocky outcrops that feel both remote and inviting.
Planning your ascent means arriving prepared with small cams suitable for the narrow placements and familiarizing yourself with the bolt lines to keep your protection efficient. Timing your climb for mid-morning or afternoon ensures the route receives good light but avoids the peak sun that can warm the rock unevenly. The descent is straightforward, with rappel anchors readily accessible, but climbers should stay vigilant on the ranger trail linking Oregon Jack to the broader Pinnacle network. This solid single-pitch act of climbing rewards focus, offering a concise stretch of trad climbing with just enough exposure to keep adrenaline in check and eyes on the rock.
Whether you’re brushing up on trad basics or adding a worthy pitch to your Kamloops list, OJ Tower offers a taste of the region’s climbing ethos: practical, approachable, and intimately tied to the landscape around it.
Although protection is straightforward, the spacing between bolts requires mindful gear placement to reduce runout risk. The rock is generally solid but avoid climbing when damp, as the exposed arete can become dangerously slippery. Always double-check fixed anchors before descent.
Bring small to medium cams for narrow crack placements along the arete.
Plan your climb for late morning or early afternoon to avoid uneven rock heating.
Familiarize yourself with the fixed rappel stations before starting the climb.
Wear grippy shoes with good edging to maintain balance on the arete.
Keep an eye on weather: wet rock is slippery and unsafe in this area.
A small set of cams is essential for the optional gear placements, complemented by three bolts for secure clipping. The fixed two-bolt rappel anchor simplifies descent.
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