Oedipus Complex unfolds on the rugged faces of Mothers Day Buttress, an imposing granite formation clutching the slopes of Cascade Mountain within Banff National Park. This four-pitch trad climb invites adventurers willing to engage a route that balances gritty challenges with rewarding movement and varied rock quality. From the earthy grit of the first pitch to the expansive stemming of the finale, each segment presents a distinct character demanding steady footwork, careful gear placement, and an appetite for a blend of sustained moderate climbing with a sharp crux. As you step onto the initial ledge, the mountain’s altitude presses against your lungs and the crisp alpine air carries the scent of dry pine and cold stone. The rock whispers its age-earned textures beneath your fingertips—a blend of weathered flakes, sharper crack systems, and the occasional loose fragment that tests your vigilance.

Starting with a 45-meter pitch rated 5.9, the route does not shy from delivering rough patches. Here, the rock quality is at its poorest, dusted with loose debris and choss that demands precise movements and patience. The climb begins in a dirty corner, steadily stiffening as you ascend, encountering two bolts guarding a more technical sequence. The moves take you into an angled traverse left, rounding back right to gain a corner peppered with old pitons and more unstable holds. The belay perch is a welcome reprieve—a ledge tucked just below a bulging wall where fixed anchors await the next push.

The second pitch, though short at 15 meters, steals the show as the difficult crux, rated 5.10c. Starting directly off the belay station, this pitch launches you into a steeper slab that tests balance and composure. Three bolts mark the passage, threading a delicate traverse left across slightly overhanging terrain. The challenge lies in committing to the slick slab moves and then transitioning to the right-facing corner where a mantle move requires a blend of power and finesse. Runners find solid protection here, making the risk manageable but the moves tense.

Pitch three drops to a solid 5.8 grade and provides a mental breather. It moves into a left-facing corner crack system after a short ledge, drifting through patches of less stable rock but offering better quality holds overall. This 25-meter section isn’t flashy but is essential for recovering control before the final push. The bolt-protected belay rests on a comfortable ledge, ideal for regrouping before the climb’s highlight.

The last pitch is the gem that justifies the approach. At 45 meters of sustained 5.8 stemming and crack climbing, it weaves a route up a broad corner before switching out onto the right wall’s clean crack systems. The climbing here is crisp, demanding long reaches and wide stances, making every move feel purposeful. The crack widens just right for 1-inch gear placements, rewarding clean, thoughtful protection placement. The pitch finishes on easier ground below a bolted rappel station, providing safe exit options and a moment to savor expansive views of the surrounding Rockies.

Gear-wise, a standard trad rack up to 4 inches covers the protections needed for this climb, with particular attention paid to smaller nuts and cams for the last pitch. The fixed bolts come primarily on the crux pitch, assuring a safety net amid the runouts.

Approaching Mothers Day Buttress requires a steady hike through dense alpine forest and granite talus, with GPS coordinates pinpointing the route’s base at 51.2139 latitude and -115.5373 longitude. Plan for approximately 20 to 30 minutes of approach time, with some sections loose and steep. Consider early morning starts to avoid afternoon sun on the east-facing wall, especially in summer when heat can zip across exposed slabs.

Rappelling the route is straightforward with a single 60-meter rope from established stations, though care is needed descending from the first pitch due to awkward fixed pin placements. Stay aware that the rock quality on the first pitch demands cautious movement, and don’t underestimate the mental edge needed to tackle the crux pitch. Weather in Banff can fluctuate swiftly; secure all gear and double-check anchors to prevent missteps.

Oedipus Complex offers a demanding but deeply rewarding trad experience amid one of Canada's most iconic climbing settings. It blends rough early climbing with a technical peak, then rewards persistence with deft stemming and solid crack work on the finale—making it a must for trad climbers hungry for adventure off the beaten path and into the heart of the Rockies.