"October Light offers a demanding trad climb on The Fang’s striking walls, blending technical chimney and crack climbing over 150 feet. Ideal for those seeking a bold yet accessible trad challenge just outside Lyons, Colorado."
October Light invites you into a compelling trad climbing experience carved into the rugged expanse of The Fang, tucked within the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon near Lyons, Colorado. Stretching roughly 150 feet in a mostly continuous line, this route masterfully blends technical moves with a vivid sense of exposure and natural rock features. From the first move, you confront a challenging crux—rated around 5.9—just above the ground, a short but intense sequence that demands confident footwork and precise hand placements. This opening segment is well protected by natural gear placements, providing a sense of security as you engage the demanding start.
The climb begins in a distinct alcove beneath a pair of bolts sporting two sport lines, positioning October Light as a standout trad alternative that requires you to finesse your way around these fixed features. The initial pitch, which can be climbed as one substantial push or broken into two pitches of 85 and 65 feet respectively, unfolds with a hand traverse moving rightward into an unusual squeeze at the apex, a physical moment that tests flexibility and body positioning. Continuing upward, the route follows a v-shaped slot that leads directly to a belay spot—optional but recommended for managing rope drag or pacing.
Above, the journey transitions into a chimney section that demands stemming skills rather than aggressive off-width techniques. This chimney opens into a wider crack system, where delicate stemming and smearing push you toward easier terrain and ultimately the summit. Along the way, patches of lichen remind climbers of the route's quieter nature, though frequent ascents will steadily polish the rock face.
October Light is a route that rewards imaginative movement and solid trad technique more than brute strength. No fixed anchors or bolts protect the climb, so carrying a full rack and big cams—especially something comparable to a #6 Camalot—is vital for safe progression. The route’s traditional protection offers an engaging gear placement challenge that complements its physical demands and natural features.
Approach to The Fang is straightforward but requires a mindful pace, as the access trail follows rugged terrain through open canyon landscapes, scaling approximately 800 vertical feet over a mile of moderate hiking with some loose sections. Weather can quickly shift in this part of Colorado, so timing your climb for dry conditions and early daylight hours is advised to avoid afternoon storms and heat.
For climbers ready to engage both mind and body, October Light provides an unforgettable vertical experience, one that merges technical demand with the raw beauty of the St. Vrain Canyons. Bringing a mix of patience, gear savvy, and respect for the natural rock will ensure a rewarding ascent in a setting where the canyon walls themselves seem to watch and challenge every move.
Whether you're breaking into harder trad grades or seeking a distinct adventure with a sharp variety of moves, October Light stands as a practical yet thrilling test piece for those who value quality rock and a genuine trad challenge in the Colorado high country.
No fixed anchors or bolts mean your safety depends on placing secure pro; be prepared for tricky placements, especially in the chimney and wider crack zones. Watch for lichen patches which can reduce friction. Approach carefully, as loose scree sections can increase risk of slips.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the area during summer months.
Bring gloves to protect hands on the chimney and wide crack sections.
Approach trail is moderately steep and rocky—sturdy hiking shoes recommended.
Expect some lichen on the rock; repeat ascents will help clean key holds.
All trad gear required; no fixed pro or anchors are present. Essential to bring a full rack with larger cams such as a #6 Camalot or similar for the wider crack sections and chimney protection.
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