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Obtuse Corner at Diehard Cliff: A Classic 5.8 Trad Challenge

Aspen, Colorado United States
diagonal crack
eyebrow crux
runout
smear footwork
small cams
alpine granite
single pitch
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Obtuse Corner
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Obtuse Corner offers a crisp 60-foot trad pitch on the sharp granite faces of Diehard Cliff near Independence Pass. Challengers will find a steady diagonal crack demanding precise gear placements and commitment, all framed by sweeping alpine vistas."

Obtuse Corner at Diehard Cliff: A Classic 5.8 Trad Challenge

Set against the rugged backdrop of Diehard Cliff near Independence Pass, Obtuse Corner offers a straightforward yet engaging pitch for trad climbers looking to test their technique on Colorado's storied granite. This single-pitch, 60-foot climb unfolds along a pronounced diagonal crack that invites a steady flow of gear placements and careful footwork. As you step onto the route, the rock immediately pulls you into the rhythm of classic crack climbing, demanding precise jam placements and controlled movements.

The approach leads you through mixed alpine terrain, where the clean mountain air sharpens your focus and the quiet pulse of the surrounding wilderness fills the senses. The crack widens into an 'eyebrow' section—an angled overlap where smaller cams must be meticulously slotted. This particular move represents the route’s crux, requiring confidence and careful gear choice, often a #0.3 cam or something comparable.

Pushing beyond this challenge, the climb eases into longer reaches and occasional runouts that test your nerve without overwhelming difficulty. Tricams can find secure rests in subtle features past the crux, but many choose to extend the run to placements with larger cams (#0.5 and #1) for added peace of mind. The pitch concludes with a technical lieback sequence over a precarious smear, demanding balance and composure before reaching the anchored belay.

Protection on Obtuse Corner relies on a rack of small cams progressing to mid-sized pieces; broad gear variety is essential to manage the variations in crack width and available placements. The rock quality remains solid, though some sections have less generous edges that reward cautious weighting. Weather conditions at Independence Pass can shift quickly—early summer through early fall offers the most reliable windows, with clear skies and minimal snow on approach trails.

Planning your ascent means gearing up with a lightweight rack emphasizing micro cams, rock shoes with precise edging capabilities, and a durable tape for finger protection as the crack sections can roughen skin quickly. The trailhead sits at high elevation, so hydration and acclimation remain key components to a successful day. The area’s remote alpine environment sprays the air with pine and wildflowers, accompanied by distant, rushing streams that fuel the climb’s invigorating spirit.

With an old-school feel and a PG13 rating hinting at runout sections that require solid gear judgment, Obtuse Corner rewards climbers seeking a focused, traditional challenge without excessive technical difficulty. This route is a direct invitation to savor precise crack technique amidst steep alpine cliffs and expansive mountain views.

Climber Safety

Protection is generally solid but some sections require careful placement of smaller cams. The angled 'eyebrow' crux and the final smear demand precise footwork and balance. Be cautious of potential runouts, and watch trail conditions for unstable rock or loose talus on approach.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in summer afternoons.

Hydrate well due to the high elevation of Independence Pass.

Use rock shoes with precise edging for the smear moves near the anchor.

Bring extra tape to protect your fingers through tight crack sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.8 PG13, Obtuse Corner's grade feels generally true to standard but the crux' protectable yet committing nature bumps the mental challenge. The modest runouts require careful gear judgment, making it feel stiffer for those who prefer fully protected routes. Compared to other Independence Pass climbs, it’s a solid introduction to runout trad cracks on granite.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack stocked with small cams ranging up to size #3. A #0.3 cam is critical for the crux 'eyebrow' section. Tricams can be useful but expect to run it out between some good placements at #0.5 and #1 sizes.

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Tags

diagonal crack
eyebrow crux
runout
smear footwork
small cams
alpine granite
single pitch