"The NW Traverse on Mt. Colin is a rugged alpine route that blends exposed scrambling with technical trad climbing. With a mix of third-class terrain and well-protected 5.6 R moves, it offers climbers a bold climb through Jasper’s raw high-country ridges."
The NW Traverse on Mt. Colin carves a compelling line through one of Jasper National Park’s raw alpine ridges, offering adventurers a mix of rugged scrambling and technical trad climbing. This 2600-foot ascent stretches across three pitches of mostly third-class terrain steeped in the wild energy of the Canadian Rockies. You begin near the Hawk-Colin col, where a scramble over steep rock, sometimes fourth and even easy fifth class, demands precise footwork and steady nerves. The rocky pedestal marking the start sets a tone of quiet intensity, as you step carefully toward an au cheval section, perched on the edge between exposure and solid footing.
Climbers will build a pin anchor with knifeblades beneath the pedestal before tackling the intimidating ridge itself. The ridge stretches out like a natural spine, daring you to follow its jagged profile. Here, short pitches and tight ropes weave through jagged rocks and occasional overhangs. The moves remain mostly in the third-class range, but sporadic, well-protected fifth-class steps require both focus and confidence.
Near the top, a steep prow overhangs the route, guarded by a ledge that leads onto the southwest face. Protection here calls for finger-sized cams and the reassurance of fixed pitons. The route is peppered with three pitons forming an anchor in a gritty gully that speaks of many climbers before you. It’s important not to stray too far down from this ledge—if you extend beyond 15 meters, you risk following false routes that lead off the ridge.
The climb’s technical crux occurs as you ascend a crack on the left, rated 5.6 R, marked by three fixed pitons that stretch toward the crest of the ridge. The rating reflects a careful balance: it’s approachable for intermediate climbers but demands clean gear placements and calculated moves. Large, loose blocks along the route pose natural hazards, and you must remain vigilant to protect yourself and your belayer from falling debris.
Finally, a short rope and pitch boost you to the summit, where wide mountain panoramas reward the effort. Descent involves rappelling the southeast ridge using a 28 to 30-meter rope from a slung block. If your rope is shorter, an additional anchor 10 meters below offers a safe alternative. The return follows cairned scree paths down to a creek bed, winding through glacial runoff to a nearby hut—a fitting finish for a day of alpine adventure.
This route showcases the raw spirit of alpine climbing: a blend of exposed scrambles, cautious trad pitches, and a rugged environment that demands respect. Preparation is essential, from securing the right rack of knifeblades and cams to mastering terrain belays for the variable grades you’ll encounter. The NW Traverse, while accessible to determined intermediate climbers, keeps the mindset sharp and gear at the ready, making it a memorable outing deep in the Rockies’ alpine heart.
Whether stepping cautiously around unstable blocks or moving confidently along short pitches, this route invites climbers into a dance with the mountain, where every handhold and foothold draws you closer to the summit’s cold air and vast vistas.
Loose blocks appear frequently along the ridge, posing a falling hazard for climbers and belayers alike. Always check holds before weighting them and maintain good communication about block danger zones. Additionally, ensure your anchor systems are robust since the rock can be uneven and sometimes dirty. Timing your climb outside wet or icy conditions will reduce risk on the exposed fingers of the NW Traverse.
Carefully evaluate block stability throughout the route to avoid hazards to yourself and your belayer.
Build solid pin anchors with knifeblades and small angles below the pedestal for secure belays.
Practice short rope techniques on the lower terrain to manage the mix of scrambling and technical moves.
Plan your descent with sufficient rope length (50-60 meters) for safe rappelling off the southeast ridge.
A standard Rockies pin rack is essential: include 1-2 large locking carabiners (LAs), 3 knifeblades, 2 small angles, 6-8 medium nuts, cams ranging from 0.5 to 2 inches, and 4-6 shoulder-length slings for anchor building and protection on tricky placements.
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