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Nun Buttress Climb at Deer Ridge Buttress

Estes Park, Colorado United States
hand crack
exposed ledges
granite prow
multi-pitch
Lumpy Ridge
trad gear
Colorado climbing
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Nun Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Nun Buttress offers a crisp, hands-on granite trad climb in Estes Park’s Deer Ridge Buttress area. Featuring three pitches with solid cracks and prow climbing, this route blends accessible challenge with sweeping alpine views, perfect for those ready to explore Colorado’s iconic granite faces."

Nun Buttress Climb at Deer Ridge Buttress

Rising sharply above the east side of Deer Ridge Buttress, Nun Buttress stakes its claim as a classic introduction to the granite faces of Estes Park Valley. The climb kicks off near the distinctive Praying Nun spire, a towering marker that greets you with an austere silhouette against Colorado’s rugged skyline. Your first challenge is a scramble around the left flank of this spire, moving onto a ledge known locally as "Stagway"—a stretched-out band of solid rock that extends along the prow. This approach has a subtle complexity, inviting climbers to test their footing on exposed slabs and compact granite, with the air filled by the crisp mountain breeze and occasional bird calls echoing off the cliffs.

For those aiming to raise the stakes early, a more direct start rated around 5.9 accesses Stagway from below and right, offering a bolder, finger-strength challenge. From here, the climb unfolds over three pitches, each blending technical hand jams and thin crack climbing with clean granite features reminiscent of Cob Rock’s classic lines. The first pitch guides you sharply right onto a prow, where immaculate, hand-sized cracks test your precision and control, leading to a comfortable belay ledge with panoramic views of the Lumpy Ridge expanse.

Moving upward, the second pitch shines as one of the standout moments of the route. Here, the left-facing corner demands careful foot placements and steady crack work, maintaining a consistent 5.7 to 5.8 difficulty. This pitch’s granite feels almost polished under your hands, each move rewarding thoughtful protection placements along the way. After topping out the corner, the terrain softens, giving way to easier slabs and finally the summit's open ledges, revealing sweeping views of Estes Park and the surrounding wildlands.

Expect a standard trad rack for protection—nuts and cams that fit hand to fist-sized cracks will keep you secure on this granite face. The rock quality is generally excellent, with stable nuts and good placements throughout, though climbers should remain vigilant on the slab sections for loose rock and exposure.

The approach is straightforward but requires a mindful pace: scrambling from the trail to the base near Praying Nun can be steep and uneven, so sturdy footwear and an early start can help avoid afternoon weather shifts common in the region. Morning light bathes the east-facing wall, making early ascents ideal to warm up in the sun before cooler mountain breezes sweep in. Descending is a mix of easy scrambling and walking off the ridge, with no technical rappels needed, but keeping an eye on the footing as loose gravel gathers near the exit paths.

Whether you're stepping into Lumpy Ridge granite for the first time or returning to soak in familiar lines, Nun Buttress offers a solid climb with a balanced dose of challenge and scenery. It’s a route that rewards focus and subtlety over brute force, perfect for climbers seeking a genuine taste of Colorado’s classic trad routes paired with an approachable alpine environment.

Climber Safety

Pay attention on the slabby approach and traverse sections where footholds can be sparse and loose gravel may hide below. The rock quality is solid overall, but occasional small flakes on ledges call for deliberate placements and cautious footwork.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy the east-facing wall in morning sun and avoid afternoon thunderstorms.

Wear sturdy footwear for the approach scramble around the Praying Nun spire—rocks can be slippery.

Use a moderate rack with hand to fist-sized cams; loose gear adds unnecessary weight.

Plan for a downclimb after the summit—no rappels required but watch for loose gravel on exit trails.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating here feels well-calibrated, offering steady technical moves without sustained crunches. The first pitch’s clean hand cracks demand edge control but remain accessible. The second pitch gently bumps the challenge with a cool left-facing corner, which might push some climbers to focus and commit. Compared to other Lumpy Ridge classics, Nun Buttress is approachable but doesn’t compromise on quality or exposure.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on hand to fist-sized cams and nuts. Protection is straightforward with solid placement options on clean granite. Consider extra slings for extended belays and anchor building on ledges.

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Tags

hand crack
exposed ledges
granite prow
multi-pitch
Lumpy Ridge
trad gear
Colorado climbing