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Nuclear Holocaust: A Compact Trad Challenge at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Welsford, Canada
finger crack
arête
bolt protected crux
single pitch
corner climbing
Welsford
Length: 105 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Nuclear Holocaust
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Nuclear Holocaust delivers a sharp and technical single-pitch trad challenge right on the striking Cochrane Lane Cliffs. From crack jams to thin arêtes, this route tests steady footwork and precise gear placements in a setting that combines rugged terrain with captivating views."

Nuclear Holocaust: A Compact Trad Challenge at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Set against the rugged backdrop of the Cochrane Lane Cliffs in Welsford, New Brunswick, Nuclear Holocaust offers a concentrated burst of technical trad climbing that demands both finesse and focus. This single-pitch route stretches just over 100 feet, yet packs a variety of moves that test crack technique and body positioning within a landscape where every foothold feels decisive.

The climb begins by pulling onto a low ledge beneath an inviting yet compact wall marked by a network of cracks. These initial features swiftly draw you upward, setting a steady rhythm before the true character of the route emerges. Reaching the next ledge, you encounter the defining corner—an almost living element that twists and challenges as you layback and stem your way through it. The corner seems to push back, daring you to find your balance and stay patient.

A single bolt appears just before a small roof crowns the corner, marking the threshold of the route's crux. Here, precision becomes paramount as you navigate a thin corner crack and the delicate arête alongside it. Moving upward and left, you latch onto steadily better holds on the left wall, offering a momentary release amidst the concentrated effort.

Beyond the crux, the climbing eases across a series of ledges leading into the final gully that guides you to the top. The terrain opens gradually, and the rewards of persistence reveal themselves through expansive views over the forested hills below.

Protection-wise, the route is straightforward but requires careful rack selection. A single bolt provides some security near the crux, but good placement skills for finger to 3-inch cams are essential. This route respects the tradition of self-reliance, rewarding those prepared to place gear confidently on delicate cracks.

The approach to Nuclear Holocaust is a short but steady hike from the parking area at Welsford, weaving through mixed hardwoods and rocky outcrops. Access trails are well trodden yet uneven beneathfoot, so sturdy hiking shoes are recommended, with an approach time of around 15 minutes. Latitude 45.4396 and longitude -66.30797 provide precise GPS coordinates.

Timing your climb between late spring and early fall maximizes favorable weather, with the climbing wall’s northeast aspect offering cooler morning shade and afternoon sun—a balance that keeps the rock grippy and the temperature comfortable.

Descent from the climb involves a straightforward walk off the top ledges, though paying attention to loose rock and footing is crucial to avoid slips. Bringing a chalk bag and a modest rack can make the ascent smoother, while hydration and layered clothing will keep you comfortable against the variable coastal climate.

Nuclear Holocaust isn’t just a test of technique—it’s a pocket of quiet intensity carved into the cliffs, inviting climbers to engage deeply with the rock and their own movement. Whether you’re dialing in your finger cracks or stretching your crimp endurance, this route offers a focused challenge with rewarding clarity in Welsford’s wild setting.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock on the upper ledges during the finish; footing can be tricky and a fall here could be hazardous. The crux bolt offers reassurance, but overall gear placement must be meticulous to maintain safety.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length105 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is uneven—wear sturdy hiking shoes for safe footing.

Start climbs early for cooler conditions and better rock friction.

Bring a rack covering finger to 3-inch cams to manage varied crack sizes.

Be prepared for loose rock near the top ledges; descend carefully on foot.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10d PG13, Nuclear Holocaust features a distinct crux at the small roof where thin crack climbing merges with an arête. The PG13 rating indicates that while some protection is bolted, much depends on precise gear placements and controlled body positioning. Compared to local classics, the grade feels true to the tag, with a moderate pump factor that challenges your crack climbing skills.

Gear Requirements

Expect to place protection mainly in finger-sized cracks up to 3-inch cams. One bolt is fixed near the crux for added security, but overall gear confidence and range are important.

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Tags

finger crack
arête
bolt protected crux
single pitch
corner climbing
Welsford