"Nuclear Disaster offers a brief but sharp trad climb just left of Pet Cemetery in Devil's Head. Its tough opening moves demand composure and precise gear placements, making it a rigorous introduction to South Platte's crack climbs."
Located just left of the well-known Pet Cemetery route, Nuclear Disaster presents a short yet demanding trad climb that tests your precision from the first move. This single-pitch, 45-foot route climbs a sharply angling crack system set against the rugged rock faces of Devil's Head, Colorado. The opening move is as unforgiving as the name suggests—a challenging reach that demands both commitment and steady footing, as a slip could mean a tumble down the rocky gully below. The protection is sparse here; a single set of cams and nuts is essential to protect the initial moves, although placements can be finicky at the start. Past the crux, the route eases into a more manageable climb, following a twisting crack that angles right before shooting straight up to a solitary pine tree. From there, the line continues along another angling crack leading directly to the anchor shared with Pet Cemetery.
Despite the climb’s intimidating name and position within the iconic South Platte climbing area, its overall experience is grounded and straightforward. The rock’s texture offers solid friction, but the route lacks sustained technical challenges once past the initial crux. The setting itself demands respect; the gully’s exposed nature reminds climbers to remain alert throughout the ascent. Approach the climb during the cooler parts of the day to avoid sun-baked rock that can sap your grip and patience alike. Daily hikers and climbers frequent this area, so plan for some foot traffic on the trails.
Gear up with a well-rounded set of cams and nuts, ensuring you have smaller sizes for delicate placements early on. Footwear with sticky rubber will boost confidence on the steeper crack sections, and tapping into some finger crack technique will help manage the shifts in crack width. Hydrate thoroughly before starting, and consider bringing a light snack to maintain energy levels for the short walk back. Controlling your breathing as you navigate the opening moves will smooth out the difficulty, while keeping your focus on footholds will prevent errant slips. This climb is a perfect primer for those looking to sharpen their crack skills in a real-rock environment without committing to longer routes. While it doesn’t deliver high endurance challenges, Nuclear Disaster offers a taste of the South Platte trad experience shaded by towering pines and framed by steep cliffs. It’s a route that rewards measured risk and precision more than brute strength, making it a practical addition to any Colorado trad climber’s itinerary.
The initial move above the gully is exposed with limited protection—avoid slipping here. The rocky gully below offers little shelter for a fall, so double-check placements and maintain control on early sections. Rock can be slick after rain, increasing hazard.
Start early to avoid strong afternoon sun warming the rock.
Wear sticky-soled climbing shoes to maximize friction on steep cracks.
Check rock conditions after rain as wet surfaces increase slip risk.
Bring enough water for the approach and descent, especially in warmer months.
A single set of cams and nuts is required. Smaller cams are needed for tricky placements at the crux, while nuts fill in the mid-climb protection. Sturdy trad gear is essential as fixed anchors are limited.
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