"Nuclear Arms offers a bold, technical crack climb just above Dora’s Crack in Squamish. A single pitch trad route featuring demanding protection, steady hand jams, and a northwest-facing wall that stays cool for afternoon sends."
Nuclear Arms stands as a bold single-pitch trad climb in the heart of Squamish, British Columbia, offering a gritty and rewarding experience for climbers ready to test their crack climbing technique. Situated just above the well-traveled Dora’s Crack, this route begins in a steep gully where the rock feels alive beneath your fingers, eager to engage your hands and feet as you ascend. The climb immediately commands your attention with a large, left-leaning flake that invites you to commit early and trust your placements. From here, the route moves onto the northwest-facing wall, a broad, exposed face marked by an unmistakable wide crack slicing through the granite.
The rock quality here is classic Squamish granite—solid but demanding—offering secure hand jams and finger locks that reward precise footwork and steady breathing. You’ll find the crack generous enough for bomber large protection, but it requires awareness and confidence in gear placement. The slightly overhanging nature of the wall adds a physical edge to the climb, calling on both strength and balance to navigate the crux moves near the upper section.
While the route measures a modest 75 feet, its 5.10c rating carries weight, not from sustained difficulty, but from sharp, technical moves and the need for a solid mental game on gear and protection. The northwest exposure means the wall stays cooler in afternoon shade, making it ideal for climbing in warmer weather. It’s a great challenge for intermediate to advanced trad climbers familiar with big cams and finger cracks, offering an intense but compact adventure with a distinctly alpine feel.
Access to Nuclear Arms requires a short approach through a forested gully just above Dora’s Crack, with a mix of rock and dirt trail underfoot. Expect about 10 to 15 minutes from the main parking area in Squamish, with GPS coordinates pointing to 49.6782 latitude and -123.1515 longitude for easy navigation.
Proper gear is essential here. Bring a solid rack of large cams and nuts, as the crack varies in width and demands well-thought protection placements. The climb’s high-quality rock means minimal loose holds but demands respect for your anchors, which should be carefully constructed for a safe descent.
After the climb, a straightforward walk-off down the gully returns you to the base quickly, letting you savor the adrenaline of sending without a lengthy exit. Local climbers appreciate Nuclear Arms for its clear beta and confident line, making it a worthy part of any Squamish trad itinerary, particularly as a warm-up or a sharp technical test within this world-class climbing playground.
Rock quality is generally solid, but the approach gully is steep and can be slippery when wet—exercise caution. Protection placements require careful judgement; avoid relying solely on fixed gear and always back up anchors.
Start early in the day to avoid afternoon crowds on The Chief
Use sticky-soled climbing shoes for secure foot jams
Double-check your anchor placements before top-rope or rappelling
Keep plenty of water handy; the approach may be sweaty in warm weather
Bring a full rack emphasizing large cams for the wide crack sections, complemented by nuts for smaller placements. Trust your instincts on placements as some sections offer subtle gear spots.
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