"Not Your Daddy’s Dihedrals offers a hands-on trad climb weaving slab and dihedral cracks on Shelf Road's iconic walls. Perfect for climbers seeking a moderate three-pitch challenge with varied protection and a mental edge, this route blends technical moves with thoughtful gear placement."
Set against the rugged backdrop of Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado, Not Your Daddy’s Dihedrals offers a refreshing escape into classic trad climbing with a sturdy dose of rock-step adventure. This modest 360-foot route, composed of three pitches, challenges climbers to navigate a blend of slab and dihedral terrain that tests both technical skill and thoughtful gear placement. From the moment you begin, you meet the rock’s quiet resistance—a slabby face with sparse but strategically placed bolts guiding your ascent. Early protection is limited, compelling you to rely on a well-stocked rack that stretches from the subtle yellow of a C3 to the robust hold of a #2 C4 cam. The climb feels like tuning into the rock's rhythm, balancing between clipping bolts and threading gear into natural cracks.
The first pitch leads you past two bolts on a slab that demands precise footwork before the route reveals its key feature: a left-facing dihedral. This is where you begin placing protective gear and where the rock starts to show its character, leaning on you to make confident moves. As you push upward, your view widens, and a bolt appears off to the right, prompting a clip and a deliberate step across to your first belay ledge. Here, the landscape opens—both physically and mentally—into what many consider the route’s true heart.
The second pitch, often described as “the money pitch,” asks for a more committed approach. A short rightward traverse leads you past two additional bolts toward another dihedral that angles sharply overhead. Gear placements abound here but require attention to spacing and proper extension, especially as you near a roof that demands a subtle lateral maneuver to continue. The rock’s personality shifts—less bolt-managed, more reliant on your trad savvy—as you move left through an obvious weakness before returning to the right for a secure anchor.
Climbers often debate the descent: while rappelling is the recommended choice, an alternative exists via a well-marked path that climbs gently yet steadily to summit anchors. This side route offers an option for those preferring a walking exit, but familiarity with the terrain and good route-finding are essential to avoid unnecessary exposure. The overall experience blends the calm of Shelf Road’s dry, sunlit walls with the focused energy needed to read the rock’s subtle clues.
Planning for this climb means gearing up with a full trad rack with emphasis on cams running from small to large, ensuring you can protect the varied cracks and pockets. Bolts are present but serve as waypoints more than primary anchors, so comfort with placing and trusting your gear is key. Approach the route with shoes that provide both sensitivity and edge support—this slabby start rewards precision.
Timing your climb to early morning or late afternoon is wise in Shelf Road’s intense Colorado sun; the wall’s orientation offers sun exposure during midday that can make friction moves challenging and hydration crucial. Always bring ample water and prepare for rapid weather changes characteristic of the area. With moderate star ratings reflecting its steady but approachable difficulty, Not Your Daddy’s Dihedrals suits climbers eager to blend technical tradition with engaging movement across varied rock features.
Slab sections have sparse bolts, requiring confident footwork and reliable gear placements. The roof on the second pitch necessitates careful extension to minimize rope drag and prevent dangerous falls. The walking descent can be tricky to locate—ensure you have clear directions or plan to rappel.
Start early to avoid midday heat on the exposed slab pitches.
Bring a rack favoring medium to large cams for the dihedral placements.
Consider rappelling at the 2nd anchor for quicker descent; the walking path to summit anchors is less obvious.
Wear shoes with precise edging to manage the slab sections comfortably.
Standard trad rack essential: cams ranging from yellow C3 to #2 C4, bolted anchors present, and five bolts mostly for route-finding. Bolts guide but do not substitute for solid gear placements.
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