5.9 A3, Trad, Aid
South Lake Tahoe
California ,United States
"Not So Direct challenges climbers with ten pitches weaving through roofed corners and cracks on Indian Rock’s West Shore. This trad and aid route pairs technical placements with expansive Lake Tahoe views—perfect for those ready to push their multi-pitch skills."
Not So Direct offers a commanding ascent that demands respect and polished technique across ten pitches of varied trad and aid climbing. This route carves a line through a sequence of sharp roofs, corner cracks, and exposed traverses on Indian Rock’s West Shore, just above the shimmering expanse of Lake Tahoe. From the ground, the climb appears a bold challenge, with over a thousand feet of vertical terrain broken up by two hanging belays where climbers pause to gauge the next move. The approach-sized pins and a range of protection—ranging from tiny rurps to large chocks—test your rack management and placement skills as you navigate sustained sections of technical aid up fractured roofs.
The route begins several hundred feet left of the indirect line, where the initial pitches thread through broken layered roofs that demand precision and patience. This starting sequence sets the tone for a climb that balances effortful movement with strategic resting spots. The upper tiers bring a bivouac opportunity, where climbers can rest suspended on a ledge, absorbing sweeping views of Lake Tahoe’s glassy surface and the pine-fringed shoreline below. The granite here moods with every shift of light and wind, from warm sunlit slabs to cool shaded cracks where moisture sometimes lingers.
Navigating Not So Direct requires a solid mix of gear placements: pins that vary from tiny rurps to delicate one-inch angles challenge even experienced climbers, while chocks and stoppers up to four inches fill out your rack to protect the runouts. Clipping into hanging belays often requires careful rigging and patience, especially when hauling gear through aid sections. The climb moves steadily enough to keep momentum but be ready for technical cruxes on roofs that can push your endurance and commitment.
For those planning the ascent, the West Shore access trail leads here via well-marked paths, but allow ample time to handle your haul ropes and gear. The granite’s rough texture offers reliable friction with the right footwear, but caution remains essential; roofs can hold loose flakes in sections. Early season attempts may find damp rock, so late summer through early fall is ideal, when the approach and face are generally dry and stable. Bring hydration and plan for changing conditions, as weather across the lake can shift swiftly.
Local climbers praise Not So Direct not just for its climbing quality but for the immersive setting—the lake landscape stretches to the horizon, the forest below invites quiet breaks, and even the wind seems to travel with purpose, pushing you onward. Whether you’re hammering out a project or topping out after a multi-hour push, this climb rewards focus and preparation. It’s a classic line for those seeking a moderate 5.9 A3 challenge amid one of California’s iconic climbing basins.
Exercise caution on roof and corner sections where pin placements may be marginal. Wear a helmet to guard against rockfall on exposed ledges, and be prepared for potentially loose flakes. Securing hauling systems at hanging belays is crucial to maintaining safety during gear transfers.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on exposed granite sections.
Double-check pin placements on fragile roofs where loose flakes can dislodge.
Hydrate well and pack lightweight gear for efficient hauling.
Late summer and early fall offer the driest rock and most stable conditions.
Bring a comprehensive rack: pins from rurps to one-inch angles for aid sections, plus chocks from small to four inches for protection. Hauling gear through hanging belays requires extra slings and rigging equipment.
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