HomeClimbingNot A Hogan

Not A Hogan: A Tactical Trad Challenge at Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree, California United States
finger crack
fist jams
A-frame roof
desert trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree granite
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Not A Hogan
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Not A Hogan delivers a potent trad climb on Joshua Tree’s granite, marked by technical finger cracks and powerful fist jams under a striking A-frame roof. A focused single-pitch challenge, it blends physicality with desert exposure for an engaging outing."

Not A Hogan: A Tactical Trad Challenge at Joshua Tree

In the heart of Joshua Tree National Park, the Not A Hogan route on Teepee Rock offers climbers a focused and spirited trad experience that blends technical finesse with the raw desert atmosphere. This single-pitch climb stretches about 100 feet, demanding precise footwork and steady composure as you work your way up a corner crack that tests finger strength before transitioning into a powerful fist jam beneath an A-frame roof. The granite’s reliable texture provides a gritty grip that keeps you connected, while the sun-bleached rock radiates warmth, hinting at the desert’s harsh conditions.

From the ground, the route’s defining features are immediately visible: a narrow finger crack cutting through a clean corner, followed by a fiercely physical section where fists find home in a widening crack that twists past a distinct A-shaped overhang. This sequence demands both patience and confidence, rewarding climbers with a tangible sense of accomplishment once atop the ledge, where expansive views of Joshua Tree open wide under an endless blue sky.

Preparation is essential. The granite’s surface can be grainy and sharp, which favors climbers with durable hands and solid technique. Using a standard rack is sufficient here, but be ready to place small nuts and cams precisely to protect the upward moves. The approach to Teepee Rock is straightforward, involving a moderate hike on well-marked trails that keep you connected with the desert environment. Early mornings or late afternoons provide cooler temperatures, making the climb more enjoyable without the punishing midday heat.

Joshua Tree’s open exposure means the sun holds sway much of the day, but the route’s positioning offers some respite in the late afternoon when shadows cast beneath the rock faces. Hydration and sun protection are critical — the desert has few mercy points, and conditions can shift swiftly. Though only one pitch, Not A Hogan promises concentrated effort and a flow of movement that engages both mind and muscle.

Climbers of intermediate skill who appreciate crack climbing will find this route a rewarding test. The crux finger crack section demands precise hand placement, while the fist jams through the roof call for boldness and technique. Compared to other climbs in Joshua Tree, this route carries a slightly higher degree of commitment due to the technical crux and sparse protection opportunities, making it a worthy addition to your desert climbing itinerary.

In essence, Not A Hogan offers a blend of desert grit, technical challenge, and satisfying exposure—an authentic slice of Joshua Tree climbing that encourages focus and respect in equal measure. With its compact length and concentrated difficulty, it’s a satisfying goal whether you’re establishing your crack climbing skills or seeking a memorable adventure on classic granite.

Climber Safety

Be aware that the roof section offers limited resting spots and requires confident jamming technique. Protection placements near the crux can be sparse; placing solid gear before committing to powerful moves is essential for safety. Afternoon sun intensifies heat—ensure hydration and pace your ascent accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid the desert heat and enjoy cooler rock temperatures.

Wear sturdy climbing shoes that offer sensitivity for crack work and edges.

Carry plenty of water and sun protection; shade is limited along the route.

Scout placements before the crux to save time and maintain flow on the harder moves.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10a, Not A Hogan feels appropriately challenging with a finger crack crux that demands delicate handwork followed by a sustained fist jam section. The route’s difficulty lies in both strength and technical placement, making it feel earned without overstated stiffness. Compared to nearby climbs, the rating sits true to its technical demands, providing a solid mid-level challenge for crack climbers.

Gear Requirements

A standard rack with small to medium cams and nuts covers the protection requirements. Precise gear placements are crucial, especially around the finger crack and the A-frame roof section.

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Tags

finger crack
fist jams
A-frame roof
desert trad
single pitch
Joshua Tree granite