"Northern Delights is a focused, single-pitch sport climb on the southwest face of Mr. Bojangles Wall, delivering a technical corner followed by a challenging slab. Perfect for climbers ready to sharpen their skills against sharp edges and slick footwork in the accessible Lion's Head area."
Northern Delights offers a sharp burst of vertical sport climbing on the rugged face of Mr. Bojangles Wall, located in the striking Lion's Head area, part of Ontario's South Bouldering and Rock scene. This single-pitch route, rated 5.11d, demands focus and precise execution as it negotiates a demanding corner before veering onto a sleek black slab that tests balance and technique. Approaching the climb, you’ll rappel down to a hanging belay, a moment that grounds you in the rocky theater around you – cool air brushing against the stone as the forest outlines distant hills. The route’s bolts are well placed, providing secure protection, yet the sharp edges and technical moves mean this route isn’t for the faint-hearted.
The climb begins with a corner sequence that challenges finger strength and body tension, pressing into the rock with calculated movements. The fixed pins mark strategic points, aiding your progression before the path shifts westward onto a dark slab that demands smooth, deliberate footwork and steady nerve. Every inch tests your climbing aptitude, from crack holds to friction-dependent smears.
For those planning their ascent, timing is key: mid-morning to early afternoon offers the best light and warmth, beneficial on cooler days. The wall faces southwest, which means it catches ample sun in the afternoon but can linger cool in the shadowed approaches. Proper shoes with sticky rubber and moderate stiffness will greatly assist your slab moves; light hydration and chalk rounds out the essentials.
Lion’s Head itself sits just a short drive from the town of Lion’s Head, making it accessible yet retaining a natural, unspoiled vibe perfect for climbers seeking a focused experience without the crowds. The surrounding forest hums with life and the occasional wind song through the trees, lending a dynamic backdrop to your climb. While the route is bolted, climbers should remain alert to rock quality and additional environmental factors like sudden gusts or sudden shifts in temperature.
Northern Delights blends technical challenge with straightforward approach logistics, ideal for intermediate to advanced climbers hungry for a compact, intense climb. Whether you're topping out with a sense of accomplishment or scouting for the next project along Mr. Bojangles Wall, this climb invites you to meet the rock head-on and leave with a boosted skill set and memories of a vivid, precise climbing encounter.
While bolts and fixed pins provide solid protection, be cautious of occasional loose flakes near the corner. The rappel to the hanging belay requires attention to rope management, as the approach can feel exposed. Keep an eye on weather changes that might make the slab slick and hazardous.
Rappel directly to the hanging belay at the described point to avoid loose rock.
Approach in mid-morning for optimal sunlight and warmth on the slab.
Clip carefully through the fixed bolts and pins; maintain steady body tension.
Prepare for slick slab moves by wearing shoes with a stiff sole and good rubber.
All protection comes from fixed bolts and a couple of fixed pins guiding the corner sequence. Bring a standard sport rack and a single rope long enough for a rappel to the hanging belay. Sticky climbing shoes with reliable edging ability will help you navigate the slab portion with confidence.
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