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Northeast Buttress Trad Climb in San Isidro Canyon

San Isidro, Mexico
trad
multi-pitch
5.9 R
chossy ridge
crack climbing
runout
bolted protection
Length: 400 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Northeast Buttress
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Northeast Buttress offers a four-pitch trad experience blending technical cracks with loose choss and exposed ridge climbing. Rooted deep in San Isidro Canyon, this 5.9 R route challenges with runout sections and rewarding views, perfect for climbers eager to hone their trad skills in a remote Mexican setting."

Northeast Buttress Trad Climb in San Isidro Canyon

The Northeast Buttress stands as a rugged challenge carved into the heart of San Isidro Canyon, offering four pitches of classic trad climbing that invite a calculated mix of commitment and exploration. This 400-foot route winds through stark rock faces and variable terrain beneath the open northern Mexican sky, making it a compelling choice for climbers seeking an adventurous but manageable multi-pitch outing. Your journey begins with a 5.7 stem up a substantial pillar, where tension mounts as you reach for the first bolt. The rock demands steady footwork and patience to navigate this initial 20 meters of climbing, setting the tone with a gritty texture that speaks to the canyon's raw character.

As you transition onto pitch two, the climb eases into a 5.4 zone, moving past a series of bolts that guard against the easier bulges and lead to a lower-angle section marked by loose, chossy terrain. The anchor here offers shelter within a bushy enclave, a small natural refuge before the route resumes with more demanding moves. Pitch three returns to the 5.9 difficulty, opening with a bolt-protected move to the right side of a flake that shifts the rhythm of the climb. This pitch melds crack climbing and face holds, rewarding steady fingers and confident foot placements but increasingly tests composure as the rock grows looser near the final ledge.

The last pitch confronts you with a 5.5 R rating on a sketchy, chossy ridge leading directly to the summit. The exposure is real here — the narrow, crumbly rock demands focus and controlled movement. A sub-anchor with rappel chains is set up below the summit, allowing rope retrieval on a mostly horizontal rappel down the face. Be warned: the true summit lacks an anchor, so topouts require caution and planning.

To climb Northeast Buttress, bring a single rack of cams complemented by long slings to protect the varied placements, especially on the more exposed sections. The route’s mix of bolts and natural protection requires a balance of traditional gear savvy and comfort with runout terrain. This climb sits within the San Isidro Canyon area of Nuevo Leon, a climbing zone marked by its remote feel and distinctive limestone features. Although the approach demands attention — expect brushy sections and rough footing — the payoff includes sweeping canyon views and a palpable sense of isolation rarely found in more crowded markets.

San Isidro is best visited during the cooler months when the heat settles and the sun’s path offers better climbing conditions on the northeast-facing buttress. Early mornings and late afternoons provide the most comfortable shade balance, helping to reduce the risk of overheating on exposed ledges and ridges. Conversely, summer ascents require hydration focus and efficient movement to guard against heat exhaustion.

Descending from the summit requires technical caution. Rappelling is the recommended method, using the lower horizontal rappel anchor to avoid loose rock and dangerous downclimbs. Taking the right gear to manage this descent safely is crucial — avoid loose ends and double-check anchor solidity.

Northeast Buttress captures the essence of rugged trad climbing here: raw, strategic, and rewarding. It’s a route that fills the gap between approachable and serious alpine adventure, ideal for climbers ready to test their gear skills while soaking in the unique landscape of northern Mexico's volcanic canyons.

Climber Safety

Be aware the summit lacks an anchor, requiring caution when topping out. Loose rock is prominent on the ridge pitch, and the rappel anchor is positioned below the summit to avoid hazardous downclimbs. Always verify fixed anchors and carry backup gear for uncertain placements, particularly on the exposed sections.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length400 feet

Local Tips

Start climbs early to avoid midday heat; the wall gains sun late morning.

Expect brushy spots near pitch 2 anchor; lightweight gloves help on approach and belays.

Double-check bolts on exposed pitches before trusting them fully; some show weathering.

Bring efficient rappelling gear to retrieve ropes from the sub anchor safely below the summit.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade on Northeast Buttress feels a bit stern compared to other local routes of similar difficulty thanks to its runout sections and loose rock on the final pitch. The technical moves on pitch three’s crack and face climbing mark the crux, demanding solid trad technique and mental focus. Compared to other 5.9 routes nearby, expect this climb to push you with a gritty edge, especially on committing moves before protection.

Gear Requirements

A single set of cams and long slings cover necessary protection with bolts supplementing protection on key pitches. Be prepared for tricky placements on the ridge and crack sections where runout moves that demand attentive gear placements occur.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
5.9 R
chossy ridge
crack climbing
runout
bolted protection