"North Overhangs delivers a steep, bold two-pitch trad climb on the north face of The Thumb in Colorado. Featuring technical corners and an exposed traverse, it rewards climbers who seek precise gear placements and smart route-finding well off the beaten path."
Rising sharply on the north face of The Thumb, the North Overhangs route offers climbers a compact yet engaging adventure wrapped in steep corners and tricky traverses. This two-pitch, 220-foot line winds its way around imposing roofs and bulges, demanding precision in every move and gear placement. Unlike conventional guidebook directions that lead you into uncomfortable and unsanitary belay spots covered in pigeon droppings, this route rewards a little extra route-finding and a deliberate pause on a cleaner ledge just shy of the main overhang.
The approach brings you around the north side of The Thumb, a striking rock formation within the Prospect Mountain area of Colorado’s Estes Park Valley. The trail is moderate and shaded, tracing through mixed forest before revealing the imposing cliff face. Feel the cool mountain air shift as you prepare to engage the steep crack system. Pitch one pulls you past several bulges in a secure 5.8 corner, requiring careful footwork and confident hand jams. At roughly 80 feet up, avoid the standard belay position under the big roof; instead step right to reach a spacious ledge outfitted with two bolts—a cleaner, much more pleasant perch for setting your anchor.
Pitch two steps up the challenge with a bold, airy 5.9- traverse to the right. This section demands precise gear placements—you’ll want your full rack on hand with cams up to a size 3 Camalot to protect tricky positions. The traverse skirts the massive roof’s edge before easing into a steep yet straightforward corner. Watch out for bird droppings scattered on holds, mostly avoidable with care, but a reminder that nature always claims its place here.
Though some climbers may choose to rope together the entire route with a 60-meter line, be prepared for significant rope drag and rope management that requires experience and finesse. The overall experience melds technical climbing with a raw slice of Colorado’s rugged terrain—where the rock feels alive under your fingers and the mountain’s character pushes you to adapt.
Descent involves two single-rope rappels from bolt anchors located to the climber’s left atop the route or a longer single rappel from slings on the west side of the summit. There’s no straightforward walk-off; the descent is a complex downclimb rated around 5.2, long and circuitous, demanding your focus just as much as the climbs do. Visiting this route means packing all your standard trad gear and preparing for an authentic, hands-on experience with established but less-traveled rock.
North Overhangs invites climbers ready for a route that blends physicality with thoughtful beta, a challenge where planning and execution go hand in hand to carve out a rewarding day on The Thumb.
Watch for the accumulation of bird droppings on certain ledges and holds, as they may hide decent hand and footholds. The descent involves two rappels or a downclimb rated 5.2 that is long and demanding—don’t underestimate it. This route is best avoided when wet or icy, as the corners become significantly more challenging and gear placements less secure.
Avoid the pigeon-dropping-covered belay below the roof—step right 20-30 feet up for a cleaner anchor.
Wear shoes with good edging ability for the bulgy corner moves on pitch one.
Carry enough cams for tricky gear placements, especially on the traverse.
Prepare for a technical, exposed descent; no simple walk-off available.
Bring a standard trad rack with cams up to a #3 Camalot. Expect to place gear frequently, especially on the airy 5.9- traverse where protection is tricky. Two bolt anchors secure the belay ledge on pitch one and the rappel stations at the top. A 60m rope could allow rope stretching the route in one pitch, but anticipate rope drag.
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