"North of The Border is an inviting three-pitch trad climb on Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. Its moderate 5.5 rating and steady terrain offer climbers a manageable multi-pitch experience framed by spruce-lined approaches and reliable protection."
North of The Border offers climbers a straightforward yet rewarding three-pitch trad route that ascends the rugged Cochrane Lane Cliffs just outside Welsford, New Brunswick. This moderate 5.5 climb stretches about 230 feet, guiding you through a varied sequence of terrain that balances ease with moments requiring attentive footwork and solid gear placements. The approach takes you through a patchwork of forest and rocky outcrops, where the air fills with the scent of spruce and the rustle of wind in the treetops. Once at the base, the climb begins with measured steps up a gentle face before moving into a section that presses upward with increasing steepness.
As you ascend, a massive spruce tree emerges as a natural waypoint and anchor, giving a reassuring pause to catch your breath and survey the scene. Beyond the tree, the wall tightens briefly, challenging your balance on the steeper rock slabs before opening onto a ledge that marks the penultimate pitch. The final push tackles a steep wall that rewards persistence with expansive views of the surrounding ridges and forest canopy. Protection is straightforward—a single rack extending to #3 cams will cover most placements, with solid tree anchors at the belays ensuring safe transitions.
This climb is well suited to climbers seeking a mellow multi-pitch experience without the complexity of intricate crack systems or overly technical moves. It appeals to those developing their trad skills, offering a taste of confident rack management and route-finding on real rock. Timing your climb for late spring through early fall provides the most comfortable conditions, with the cliff’s east-facing aspect bathing the upper pitches in morning sun and shading climbers by afternoon. Expect the route to dry quickly after rain, but always test placements as moss and moisture can linger.
Reaching the top triggers a satisfying sense of achievement, with the descent involving rappelling the route using the established tree anchors. Prepare for this as the cliff’s exposure gives no easy walk-offs. Carry extra slings for anchor building and keep your harness tidy for smooth rope work. The trailhead lies a short drive from Welsford with parking spots at Cochrane Lane Cliffs making access convenient but mindful of leaving no trace to preserve this rugged playground. Whether you’re here to sharpen gear placement or simply enjoy a scenic day on the rock, North of The Border serves up reliable rock with the quiet pulse of the forest around you, inviting steady focus and calm adventure.
Watch for damp patches on the ledges after wet weather and always double-check your anchor and protection placements. The descent requires rappelling on fixed tree anchors, so ensure your rigging is secure and prepare for some exposure on the cliff face.
Start your climb early to enjoy cooler morning temperatures and avoid afternoon sun on steeper sections.
Test rock and gear placements carefully especially after rain as moss can hold moisture on ledges.
Carry sturdy footwear with sticky rubber to navigate the slabby terrain confidently.
Prepare for rappelling by bringing extra slings to set up tree anchors efficiently.
Bring a single rack extending to #3 cams for secure placements. Tree anchors are solid and can be trusted for belays and rappels. Slings and personal anchor systems will help with transitions.
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