Perched just upstream from the popular Upper Gorge, North Gorge is a compact climbing area that rewards those seeking a more solitary experience with a handful of quality, challenging routes. True to its name, this zone lies above a steep talus slope on the east side of the gorge, separated by a river crossing that demands balance and focus before you even set foot on the rock. The approach takes you through a wilderness of boulders scattered along the river, with paths that require scrambling skills to reach the base of the climbs—a reminder that the adventure begins long before you clip in.

The rock here is predominantly slabby and edging in style, offering a technical test for climbers comfortable on harder grades. The routes skew toward the upper end of difficulty, with a core focus on sustained, precise movement rather than brute strength. You’ll find classic pitches such as Adventures of Gladys Stokepamphlet (5.11a), Chuckwalla (5.11b), Trigger Finger (5.11c), and Goldeneye (5.12b) anchoring the area’s reputation for serious, committed climbing. These climbs exude a rugged charm, letting you explore thin footwork and delicate hand placements amid an environment that feels remote yet approachable.

Access is straightforward if you know where to start: park at the North Parking Area, then hike roughly half a mile along the road to the Organ Pipes crossing. From there, challenges present themselves in the form of rock hopping across the river flow and climbing over talus slopes—uneven but manageable quarter-mile travel that primes your focus and sets the tone for the day. Given ongoing bridge removals requested by LADWP, expect some route-finding and creativity in your crossing options, combined with a call for respect toward access restrictions and local stewardship efforts. For now, make sure to avoid parking on pavement or camping at access points, always clean up thoroughly, respect dog waste rules, and utilize onsite outhouses to keep this special place open to climbers.

Elevated at about 6,003 feet, North Gorge offers a refreshing alpine climate that sees some seasonal variation but generally provides ample prime days from late spring to early fall. Its east-facing walls receive morning sun, warming cool fingers after dawn, then settle into shade by afternoon—perfect timing to plan your climb based on personal preferences or weather. The surrounding forested slopes and rushing river embody the wild character of the Owens River Gorge, creating a sensory backdrop of crisp mountain air and granite textures.

Beyond technical execution, the setting rewards thoughtful movement and presence. The talus slopes below demand care and agility to navigate safely, and the lack of heavy crowds grants moments of serene solitude rare in California’s more trafficked climbing venues. Classic climbs like Goldeneye stand out not just for their grade, but for the layered complexity that challenges your mental focus as much as your physical skill. If you’re looking for an intense, hands-on slab experience with a side of logistical puzzle, North Gorge is a destination that pays off.

Safety considerations revolve primarily around the access challenges—river crossings can be slick, and the lack of stable bridges requires cautious planning. The rock quality is solid but expect some loose debris near talus, so approach with attentive steps. Also, remember this area is part of the Bishop Area’s wider conservation efforts, so pack out all trash and strive to leave no trace.

In summary, North Gorge calls out to experienced climbers aiming to push their limits on technical slab routes framed by rugged terrain and a quiet wilderness charm. Whether you’re tackling the sustained sequences of Adventures of Gladys Stokepamphlet or testing your skills on Chuckwalla, this area offers a unique blend of challenge and beauty forged in rugged granite and cool mountain air. Prepare well, respect the land, and you’ll find a rewarding experience in one of California’s lesser-known climbing gems.