"This classic alpine route on Mount of the Holy Cross challenges climbers with a mix of trad rock and ice pitches stretching 1,500 feet. Navigating a tight chimney and steep ice ramps, the climb rewards with high-altitude exposure and commanding views."
The North Face route on Mount of the Holy Cross offers a classic alpine experience, blending traditional rock climbing with technical ice pitches that challenge both skill and stamina. This route carves a distinct line up the mountain’s imposing north aspect, threading its way between the Angelica and Cross Couloirs. Starting in early fall, the climb presents a compelling mix of rock and alpine ice, with the season’s cooling temperatures sharpening the ice formations into solid, climbable features.
From the base, the couloir demands focus. It funnels into a long, tight chimney pitch mid-face, rated at 5.8, which forces climbers to rely on chimney technique and balance more than raw strength. The rock here is rugged and reliable but requires precise footwork under the pressure of the surrounding ice. As the line approaches higher altitudes, it transitions into a steep ice ramp bending right near the summit ridge. This final section offers the steepest ice on the climb and tests your ability to move confidently on vertical ice with limited protection placements.
Protection on this route is straightforward yet critical—carrying a compact rock rack complemented by an ice screw half-dozen is the ideal setup. The rock placements, although limited, are solid when found; meanwhile, the ice screws offer dependable security on harsher pitches. The route’s length stretches around 1,500 feet over 12 pitches, so pacing yourself with an eye on weather and daylight is essential.
The climb’s alpine environment commands respect: fresh mountain air thick with the scent of pine, the crunch of boots on frozen scree, and the fierce wind shaping snowdrifts along the summit ridge all amplify the day’s effort. Given the altitude and remoteness, climbers should plan for rapid weather changes and prepare with layered clothing, sturdy boots, and reliable crampons.
Approach to the route leads through varied terrain where well-marked trails give way to more rugged, untracked slopes near the face. Expect about 1.5 to 2 hours from trailhead to base, crossing talus fields and steep snow bands. The approach demands readiness for loose rock and careful route-finding but rewards with expansive views of the surrounding alpine basin.
Finishing the climb, the exit ramps you onto the summit ridge just beneath the peak's apex, where panoramic views showcase the sprawling wilderness below and peaks stretching toward the horizon. Descending requires rappelling or careful downclimbing, navigating icy runs and loose rock; attention and solid anchor building are necessary for a safe retreat.
Mount of the Holy Cross’s North Face route encapsulates a blend of alpine tradition and challenge, delivering a memorable climb that demands technical skill, physical endurance, and a respect for mountain conditions. It's a route for those ready to move beyond the beaten path and test themselves against a piece of Colorado’s alpine history.
Watch for unstable rock near the chimney and ensure ice screw placements are secure on the final steep ice ramp. Weather can turn quickly, so maintain awareness and plan descent before dark. The rappel anchors demand careful building and inspection.
Start early to avoid afternoon weather shifts common in September.
Layer clothing to adapt to rapid temperature changes on the face.
Check ice conditions carefully; early fall can vary between solid and thin ice.
Be prepared for a 1.5 to 2-hour approach with loose rock near the base.
A small, focused rock rack paired with approximately six ice screws offers reliable protection across rock and ice pitches. Climbers should bring technical ice gear and a trad rack capable of chimney placements.
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