"The North Face on Sharksfin offers two compelling pitches of classic trad climbing, combining smooth cracks and steep granite in a route known for its steady popularity. This accessible climb balances solid protection and stimulating moves, ideal for climbers seeking a foundational multi-pitch challenge in the Estes Park area."
The North Face route on Sharksfin stands out as a straightforward yet satisfying two-pitch climb that draws steady traffic from climbers seeking a solid introduction to the area’s granite features. Stretching 220 feet up a narrow crack system, this classic line demands respect without overwhelming, offering a perfect balance for those sharpening their crack climbing skills amid Estes Park’s rugged backdrop. The ascent begins on gentle, connected cracks that invite easy hand and finger jams. As the rock steepens, the difficulty rises to a distinct 5.8 crux, where climbers must commit to old-school crack techniques on a slightly left-leaning traverse toward a roomy belay ledge. The sharp texture of the granite bites into your fingertips, and the rock’s vertical personality encourages focus and precision.
The second pitch shifts the mood, easing off to a more relaxed 5.6 climb that rewards athletes with powerful jugs and solid holds. This pitch climbs above the belay with clean, steep granite, granting sweeping views over the Estes Park Valley below as the exposure grows. Here, the rock feels alive under your hands—the subtle changes in angle and texture push your route-finding skills while letting the rhythm of movement flow naturally.
Protection on North Face is straightforward but requires attention: a single rack of cams up to 3 1/2 inches and a set of wires are sufficient. Climbers should be prepared to place gear carefully in the crack, as protection options tighten at the steeper sections. The anchors are mostly fixed but require some searching, especially during descent. After topping out, climbers head south along the ridge to reach anchors near large ledges. From here, a half-rope rappel down the southwest corner deposits you onto a broad ledge, followed by a brief down-scramble beneath a bulky boulder that transitions into walk-off terrain. The descent is crisp but demands attention to avoid tricky route-finding in loose rock or brush.
Found just a few feet from the northwest arête of Sharksfin, this route is arguably the area’s most frequented offering, making it a reliable introduction to Sharkfin’s distinct granite and a stepping stone to tougher challenges on the adjacent West face. Conditions are best in the warmer months when the sun hits the north aspect lightly, offering comfortable climbing temperatures and preventing the stone from overheating early in the day. Expect variable shade and sun depending on timing, with afternoon climbs yielding warmer holds.
Planning a trip here rewards paddlers, hikers, and climbers alike, with Estes Park only minutes away providing easy access to facilities and supplies. A sensible early start is recommended to avoid afternoon thunderstorm patterns and to capitalize on cooler morning air. Solid footwear and crack gloves can make all the difference on this route, where rough granite textures offer excellent friction but can test the skin.
Whether you’re ticking off your first multi-pitch or savoring steady, unpretentious granite climbing, North Face embodies a classic Colorado trad experience. It’s practical, accessible, and alive with the palpable energy of granite that demands skill and rewards confidence.
Anchor locations on the descent can be difficult to find; climbers should approach rappel setups with caution and ensure gear is secure before committing. The down-scramble section beneath the large boulder contains loose rock—move carefully to avoid rockfall.
Start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms common in Estes Park summers.
Wear gloves for crack protection on the rough granite.
Bring a half rope for the rappel off the southwest corner.
Scout the anchors carefully on descent; some are not clearly marked.
Requires a single rack of cams up to 3 1/2" and a full set of wires for smooth protection. Fixed anchors can be tricky to locate, especially for the rappel descent.
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