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North Crack at Surprising Crag in Boulder Canyon

Boulder, Colorado USA
finger crack
dihedral
committing crux
single pitch
boulder canyon
trad protection
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
North Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"North Crack delivers a compact 70-foot trad climb that challenges with technical finger-to-fist jams and a committing finish. Located in Boulder Canyon's Sport Park, its inviting crack line offers reliable protection and ample rests, perfect for trad climbers honing their skills or seeking a focused outing."

North Crack at Surprising Crag in Boulder Canyon

North Crack stands as a rugged invitation for climbers craving a straightforward yet engaging trad pitch in Boulder Canyon's evolving playground, The Sport Park. This 70-foot route carves its way up a prominent deep crack that slashes through the dihedral just right of Mercy Drilling’s established line. The rock here privileges technique over brute force, offering a climb that balances moments of finger and fist jams with shifting body positions. The route’s character is defined by its crack system demanding intimate contact — whether squeezing into the narrow fissure or moving across the dihedral’s angling planes.

The approach unwinds with a short, accessible hike through forested foothills, hinting at the crisp mountain air and the faint murmur of Boulder Canyon’s ever-present creek. Once at the base, the rock’s granite texture invites confident hand and foot placements with reassuring friction beneath. Moving upward, climbers encounter solid rests—little pauses that catch your breath and offer time to assess the tricky final sequence. The crux requires edging left from the crack out onto the face to reach the bolted anchors that belong to Mercy Drilling, making the top-out committing and mentally engaging.

Protection on North Crack demands a versatile rack ranging from thin finger-sized cams to medium-sized stoppers that comfortably wedge in the varying widths of the crack. The bolt anchors top-out offer reliability and an easy rappel descent, easing the exit once the effort has settled in your muscles. Despite a solid 5.8 rating, the climb feels approachable for seasoned beginners who are ready to interpret subtle rests and commit to solid crack technique.

The route’s location within Boulder Canyon situates it among a casual cluster of climbs, making it a perfect addition to a half-day trip or a focused afternoon session. Early morning or late afternoon climbs benefit from a mix of sun and shade as the wall’s orientation welcomes the shifting light, sparing one from the harsh glare of high noon. Wear sticky shoes and bring finger tape—the crack welcomes skin contact but can be demanding on exposed fingertips.

For those plotting their climb, hydration is key: Boulder Canyon's altitude and sun exposure call for steady water intake. The short approach also means you can pack light, but a helmet is recommended to guard against occasional loose flakes common on this wall. While the route is solid and thoughtfully protected, the bold finish sequence warns against rushing.

In all, North Crack offers a focused trad climb with character—technical jams, a thoughtful crux, and secure anchors—set amid the quietly dynamic landscape that draws climbers out of Boulder’s urban edges. It’s a climb that respects skill and rewards measured, deliberate movement, inviting you into a direct dialogue with the rock and the canyon’s shifting light and soundscape.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose stone near the top section as you reach for the anchors. The final move requires committing to an edging position off the crack—avoid rushing and check every foothold carefully.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach via a short forest trail starting near The Sport Park parking; allow 10-15 minutes.

Bring finger tape to protect skin on the tighter jams.

Start early or late in the day for best light and cooler rock temperatures.

Helmet recommended—some loose flakes can appear near the anchors.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 grade here is solid but approachable. While the crack climbing stays moderate, the crux move edging left to the anchors adds a touch of boldness that feels more like a hard 5.8 rather than a soft rating. Compared to other Boulder Canyon routes, it’s a straightforward line but rewards precise technique and willingness to commit on the finish.

Gear Requirements

This climb requires a trad rack featuring a range from thin finger-size cams up to medium-sized stoppers to protect varied crack widths. Anchor at the top uses Mercy Drilling’s fixed bolts and rap rings.

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Tags

finger crack
dihedral
committing crux
single pitch
boulder canyon
trad protection