Rising sharply above the rugged talus fields of Third Recess Lake, the North Buttress on Third Recess Peak offers a compelling alpine trad experience that demands focus and steady nerves. The climb sprawls across 10 pitches and roughly 1,500 feet of vertical granite, carving a bold line through the High Sierra’s austere landscape. The first six pitches hold consistent 5.9 to 5.10a climbing that challenges you with a combination of narrow dihedrals, exposed ridges, and technical crack sequences. From the outset, the approach requires a careful trek across loose scree and broken rock, warming you up with a sense of anticipation as the buttress rises into view. This climb rewards those who appreciate both the thrill of a sustained alpine route and the precise gearwork trad climbing demands.

Starting just to the right of the main dihedral under a roof feature about 200 feet up, the initial chimney pitch moves through tight passages before belaying under a smaller dihedral—a fitting introduction to the granite’s sculpted angles. Pitch two ascends a delicate left-facing dihedral that sweeps along an arching feature, requiring nuanced movement and good footwork to reach a solid perch above the iconic roof. The climbing here remains technical and engaging, paced by the need to position gear carefully and read the rock astutely. Pitches three through six expand on this theme with thin cracks and exposed ridges, the rock’s raw texture inviting confident hand jams and mantling maneuvers. The knife-edge ridge on pitch six places you at the heart of the route’s character—exposure intensifies, and a perfect hand crack threads the line like a seam in the cliff’s edge. Each move demands respect, but the sense of presence in this high alpine environment sharpens focus and heightens the adventure.

Past pitch six, the route eases into longer stretches of 4th and 5th class climbing where the rope stretches longer, and the technical demands drop but not the awe. Here, the ridge's spine leads you toward the summit with sweeping views of the nearby cirques and distant peaks crowned with snow. The descent down the back side follows a gully path, straightforward but requiring attention, especially in changeable weather conditions common at these elevations.

Protection is primarily traditional gear: a full double rack of green alien-sized cams through #3 Camalots, a single #4 Camalot essential for larger crack sections, nuts, and plenty of slings. The absence of bolts and fixed anchors means every piece placed needs to be precise, adding a layer of thoughtful preparation and execution. A 60-meter rope will efficiently manage the pitch lengths.

Timing your climb is critical to avoid the afternoon thunderstorms that regularly sweep through the High Sierra, bringing sudden hail and increased hazard on exposed ledges. Early starts from Third Recess Lake are advised, giving ample time to move through the crux pitches before the terrain demands a quick retreat. The approach trail, while not overly long or complicated, crosses fragile scree that can sap energy before the vertical work begins, so carry enough hydration and wear sturdy footwear with solid grip.

Though the North Buttress might not be the highest-starred route in the region, its combination of sustained technical climbing, remote alpine setting, and sweeping exposure presents a genuine High Sierra experience. Climbers seeking a route that balances bold moves, stunning surroundings, and the rugged independence of unbolted trad climbing will find this line rewarding and unforgettable.