"North Buttress is a demanding trad route on Middle Cathedral Rock, spanning 18 pitches of rugged Yosemite granite. Featuring a crux of sustained face climbing and a mix of scrambling and technical pitches, it rewards climbers who combine endurance with careful route-finding."
North Buttress on Middle Cathedral Rock offers an extended trad climbing adventure deep within Yosemite Valley's iconic Cathedral Spires area. Spanning 18 pitches and stretching around 2000 feet, this route demands endurance, careful route-finding, and a steady head. Starting well west of the main buttress's base, the approach leads climbers across easy scrambling terrain before the real challenge begins.
The first several pitches move quickly through mostly 3rd and 4th class terrain, warming you up with generous ledges and forest patches that catch the afternoon sun. After this initial stretch, you’re thrust into genuine technical climbing—an exposed 5.9 crack pitch that stands out as one of the hardest early sequences. Its brevity belies its intensity, requiring commitment and precise footwork.
From here, the climb veers right into a large forested ledge, offering a rare moment to catch your breath and soak in the valley’s granite walls towering all around. The route’s crux emerges on pitch 11, a steep and sustained face climb where the path isn’t immediately obvious. Multiple thin cracks run close together, demanding both patience and route judgment as you seek the smoothest line upward. This pitch exceeds its 5.9 rating in difficulty and tests climbers’ endurance mid-route.
Beyond the crux, the terrain eases as you push towards the summit. Pitch 15 introduces a bolt-protected face climb that's now considered moderate at 5.9, a relief after earlier sustained efforts. As daylight fades, the scramble along the "Cat Walk" provides a final mix of exposure and exhilaration, leading you safely to the top or down off the ledge if you choose to descend before summiting Middle Cathedral. Though few venture all the way to the summit, it rewards those seeking solitude and sweeping views.
Planning for North Buttress requires preparation: a 60 to 70 meter rope is handy but doesn’t always simplify pitch combinations due to the route’s wandering nature. While protection specifics aren’t well documented, expect a classic Yosemite trad experience—gear placements must be trusted and your instincts sharp. Water and food should be carried with care, given the climb’s length and exposure.
This route weaves natural features with technical demands in a setting where the towering granite cliffs seem alive, daring you onward. With patience, respect for the terrain, and an appreciation for the climb’s rhythm, North Buttress delivers a compelling journey into the heart of Yosemite’s climbing heritage.
Route-finding through pitch 11’s thin cracks can be challenging; poor choices may lead to unsafe moves. The approach and descent terrain involve exposed ledges and loose rock in places, so stay alert and secure every step.
Start early to ensure ample daylight for the full climb and descent.
Carry a 60m or 70m rope but be prepared for pitch transitions that may require careful rope management.
Bring snacks and hydration for a long day; the climb extends well beyond technical sections.
Familiarize yourself with the "Cat Walk" ledge to ensure a smooth, safe finish or descent.
The topo by Don Reid brings improved accuracy over earlier versions, though protection details remain sparse. The route demands solid trad gear knowledge and comfort with variable placements, as it meanders through mixed terrain.
Upload your photos of North Buttress and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.