"No Worms offers a compact yet demanding 5.10c sport climb just right of Purple Nurple at Comox Lake. The steep line challenges climbers with a tricky bulge and roof, perfect for those looking to sharpen technique on Vancouver Island."
No Worms stakes its claim on the rugged face above Comox Lake, offering climbers a sharp and demanding sport route that tests technique and resolve. Positioned just to the right of the well-known Purple Nurple, this single-pitch climb presents a steep, bolted challenge that rises quickly into dynamic movements. The rock here carries a raw texture, gripping fingers and toes as you navigate a tricky bulge and pull powerfully over a distinctive roof feature that demands both precision and strength.
The climb’s compact length focuses all the excitement into a concentrated burst: no room for hesitation, just flow and commitment. The bolts are spaced to encourage confident clipping but require careful body positioning to avoid pump and maintain control on the strenuous moves. The approach to the wall is straightforward, with clear trail access from the Comox Lake area, allowing climbers to arrive energized and ready to push into the climb’s demands.
Comox Lake itself provides a backdrop of deep green waters framed by towering evergreens, while the air here carries a crispness that refreshes tired muscles. As you ascend, the sounds of the forest fade beneath the quiet tension of the climb, leaving the focus solely on the hold placements and your movement against the rock. For those seeking a driver to sharpen sport climbing skills on Vancouver Island, No Worms delivers a concise yet memorable experience.
Preparation is key: bring quickdraws suited for sport climbs, wear shoes with responsive edging capabilities, and pack water to stay hydrated under the variable coastal sun. The route shines best during the late spring through early fall months, when the rock dries quickly after rain and temperatures stay moderate. Avoid climbing in rainy conditions, as the roof and bulge sections can become markedly slick.
With one vote attesting to its focused challenge and a modest star rating reflecting its compact nature, No Worms offers a pure test of technique amid the quiet beauty of the Comox Lake climbing area. Whether you’re refining your power moves or adding a sharp sport grade to your climbing resume, this route stands as a compelling choice on Vancouver Island’s climbing map.
Be cautious on the roof move; the rock can be polished from frequent use, increasing the chance of slipping if the holds are wet. Clip bolts deliberately to maintain balance on the steep terrain.
Arrive early to avoid afternoon sun hitting the face and heating up the holds.
Check weather reports carefully; the roof section gets slick when damp.
Wear climbing shoes with firm edges to manage the steep bulge.
Hydrate well before the climb, as the steep moves can quickly pump your forearms.
Eight bolts secure the route, spaced to test your clipping rhythm but mostly relying on sport climbing gear. Bring a standard rack of quickdraws and focus on sticky shoes for edging on textured rock.
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