Scraping your hands along rough granite, No-see-um stakes its claim just to the right of the well-traveled Mosquito climb in the rugged Smoke Bluffs of Squamish. This compact 80-foot route slices through a sharp corner that swallows your limbs, demanding both patience and precision as you navigate past a tantalizing block that serves as the crux. The move around the block offers a brief moment of testing friction and balance before the climb opens into a deep corner and chimney section where your body will conform to the rock’s whispered angles, pushing upward and inward with steady resolve.

The Smoke Bluffs area presents a stunning outdoor classroom where granite formations rise like silent instructors, beckoning climbers of diverse skill. No-see-um’s trad nature requires a standard rack, well suited for protecting the varied crack features along the route. The protection opportunities are straightforward but demand a clear eye and steady nerves, as placements must be thoughtfully chosen to manage the shift between corners and chimney walls.

Locating the climb is intuitive for those familiar with the Bluffs. The approach is short and direct, easing the transition from forested trail to vertical challenge. The granite here feels alive—its texture offers confident friction beneath fingertips and feet, tempered only by occasional dust and flakes near the base early in the season. Climbers often find the route best tackled when the rock is thoroughly dry and temperatures are moderate, since moisture or heat can complicate holding the delicate friction needed at the crux block.

While No-see-um is a single pitch, it packs a satisfying punch for climbers looking to stretch into 5.9 territory without extended commitment. The route balances its physical demands with accessible length, making it a serious option for trad climbers wanting to sharpen crack and chimney technique in one solid outing. The climb’s exposed feel is mild yet engaging, and the surrounding forest offers a breezy backdrop that refreshes between movements.

For those who arrive prepared—with a modest rack, sticky shoes, and a mindset equally ready for technical climbing and measured strategy—No-see-um provides a route that rewards careful beta reading and quiet focus. Ultimately, it’s the subtle interplay between crack systems and the imposing crux block that defines the experience here, shaping not just the ascent but how you move in harmony with Squamish granite’s commanding edges.